This dish doesn’t really need potatoes, but if they’re in season then lovely Jersey Royals can be boiled in their skins for maximum flavour and then skinned when they have cooled down. Instead of sea trout you could use salmon, red mullet or rainbow trout. This is one of the healthiest dishes to eat because you’ve got the natural flavour from the court-bouillon. And it can be served warm rather than hot - always a help when you’re cooking for a bunch of people. I just love the integrity and simplicity of this. The flavours are vibrant, the asparagus is healthy, and the summery, fresh mint hollandaise just tops it all off.

Serves 4

4 x 150g fillets of sea trout, skinned and boned
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 bunches of green asparagus
2 bunches of white asparagus
A small knob of butter
Classic vinaigrette
A bunch of fresh chives, finely chopped
Mint hollandaise (see below)
Poaching liquor
1.5l fish stock or water
A sprig of fresh thyme
A few fresh basil stalks
2-3 slices of lemon
2 sticks of lemon grass, roughly chopped
A pinch of sea salt

1 Put the ingredients for the poaching liquor into a large pan, bring to the boil, then simmer for 15-20 minutes so the flavours infuse. Add the seasoned sea trout fillets and let these poach gently for 4-5 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat and leave the fish to cool in the liquid for a couple of minutes.

2 Peel, trim and blanch the asparagus spears for 2-3 minutes until tender but still slightly firm, mix them with some melted butter and season. If using potatoes, crush them with the back of a fork so they break into uneven chunks. Season well and drizzle with a little vinaigrette. Add the chives and mix
well. Put some potato on each warm plate, place the fish on top, and serve with the asparagus and a spoonful of the mint hollandaise.

Mint hollandaise

The thing to remember is never to allow a hollandaise to go cold because it will solidify and to bring it back to a warm creamy state is difficult. So leave it in a warm place, by the oven or next to the kettle. Don’t even be scared to sit the bowl in your poaching liquor, to stop it from splitting. Makes 300ml. Make and use straight away.

6 coriander seeds, finely crushed
3 egg yolks
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
200ml clarified butter
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
A good pinch of cayenne pepper
A squeeze of fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves

1 Put the crushed coriander seeds, egg yolks and 1 tablespoon of warm water into a heatproof bowl and place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Add the vinegar and whisk until the eggs form thick ribbons, then remove from the heat. Slowly drizzle in the clarified butter, whisking continuously until the butter disappears and the mixture becomes thick. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne. Add the lemon juice and mint and whisk in.

Extracted from Kitchen Heaven by Gordon Ramsay, published by Michael Joseph on May 6 at £20, © Optomen Television and Gordon Ramsay, 2004. Food photography © Lis Parsons, 2004, reportage photography © Mark Read and Chris Terry, 2004. Available at the Books First price of £16 plus £1.95 p&p on 0870 160 8080;

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