The pomelo is the ancestor of the grapefruit and has a gorgeously delicate, refreshing, almost peppery taste that goes well with shellfish. Waitrose, Sainsbury’s and Tesco all sell pomelo in winter. If you can’t find any, use pink grapefruit instead.

Serves 4

3 pomelos ½ small red chilli, or to taste, finely chopped 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 heads of chicory (300g) 55g rocket, washed A handful of coriander leaves A handful of mint leaves 300g raw shelled prawns 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped ½ lime, juicedSlice off the top and bottom of the pomelos. Cut away the pith and skin, leaving the flesh. Holding the fruit over a bowl, use a small serrated knife to cut down the side of each segment, so that the flesh slips out of its fibrous casing and into the bowl. Squeeze out any juice left in the casing.

To make the dressing, measure 2 tbsp of the pomelo juice into a small bowl. Add the chilli and 1 tbsp olive oil. Season to taste and set aside. Place the pomelo segments in a large bowl. (You can drink the remaining pomelo juice.)

Separate the chicory leaves. Add to the pomelo, along with the rocket. Very roughly slice the coriander and mint leaves, and add to the salad.

To clean the prawns, run a knife down the length of their back and remove the black digestive thread. Wash the prawns, pat them dry on kitchen paper and mix together with the garlic and 2 tbsp olive oil. Lightly season.

Heat a large, nonstick frying pan over a high heat. Once very hot, add the prawns and cook for about 2 minutes on each side until pink all the way through. Tip into a small bowl and season with the lime juice.

Add the prawns to the salad. Whisk the dressing and mix in. Adjust the seasoning to taste. Serve immediately.

Sharpen up your cooking

A mixture of freshly squeezed grapefruit, orange and lemon juice makes the perfect salad dressing for shellfish (see picture, right). Add olive oil (allow 1 tbsp oil to 1 tbsp juice) and season to taste with salt, pepper, and, if you’re in the mood, fresh chilli and chopped coriander.

Marinate chicken, lamb or beef in lemon, lime or Seville orange juice, with a hint of zest, some olive oil and some herbs or spices, then grill. Lemon goes with lemon thyme and garlic, lime suits honey and soy, and Seville orange is lovely with a hint of chilli and a little cumin.

Citrus juice can make amazing butter sauces that are wonderful with fish. Reducethe juice with a chopped shallot to an intense-tasting syrup. Add a dash of double cream and seasoning, then whisk in cold, diced butter to taste.

Finely grated citrus zest can add a delicate zing to many dishes. For example, add a little orange zest to tapenade, or season a pasta salad with chopped fennel, olives, orange zest and basil.

Lemon or orange zest adds a delicate lightness when infused in either sweet or savoury dishes such as beef ragout, sugar syrup for fruit salad or even custard. Take care, however, with lime or grapefruit zest, which can add a bitter note.

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