These need no decoration, but for the full-on village-fete vibe, experiment with citrus zest, shredded preserved stem ginger or crystallised flowers, available at www.squires-shop.com.

Makes 32

For the cake

- 115g dark chocolate, broken
- 85g unsalted butter, softened
- 6 medium eggs, separated
- 140g caster sugar
- Pinch of salt
- 40g plain flour

For the icing

- 200g dark chocolate
- 170g unsalted butter, softened
- Crystallised violets or jasmine (optional)

Preheat the oven to 180C/160C if fan-assisted/325F/Gas Mark 3. Grease a 30cm x 20cm nonstick baking tray and line with baking paper.

Make the cake mixture by breaking the chocolate into small pieces and placing in a bowl that will sit over a pan. Add hot water to the pan and leave the chocolate to melt gently. Replace with freshly boiled water halfway through the melting time. Once the chocolate has nearly melted, add the butter and stir until it has melted. Remove from the hot water.

Whisk the egg yolks with half the sugar and a pinch of salt until light and fluffy.

Then whisk in the warm chocolate butter. Immediately sift the flour over the chocolate mixture and fold it in. Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then gradually whisk in the remaining sugar until it forms a light meringue. Immediately fold it into the chocolate mixture. Pour into the tray and bake for about 15 minutes or until it puffs up and is just cooked. Test by inserting a knife – if it comes out almost clean, the cake is ready but will still be moist. Remove and leave to cool in its tray.

Once comfortable to handle, gently turn out onto a cooling rack. Once it is cold, wrap in foil, until you are ready to ice it. This is a cake that improves with time.

To make the chocolate icing, melt the 200g chocolate over hot water (as described above), then allow to cool until tepid. Meanwhile, beat the butter until fluffy, then beat in the tepid chocolate. Set aside.

Unwrap the cake and, once the chocolate butter is cool enough to hold its shape, spread it onto the cake.

Leave until the icing has become firm. Before you are ready to serve, trim the sides and cut it into 32 small iced squares. Garnish if you wish – then eat.

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