Apart from Edouard de Pomiane’s brevity of description, the recipes in his book Cooking in Ten Minutes are nothing less than inspired – and, by “inspired”, I mean intelligent, practical and interesting to read. It is heartening to know that his book (published by Serif) is still selling, 50-odd years on. I have taken the liberty of adding a few leaves of coarsely chopped mint, simply because I like it there. You could add basil if you prefer, but not the two together.

Serves 2

4 medium-size ripe tomatoes
A large knob of butter
Salt and pepper
3 heaped tbsp crème fraîche or double cream
A few fresh mint (or basil) leaves, chopped (optional)

Cut the tomatoes in half widthways. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat, melt the butter in it, then add the tomatoes, cut side down. Cook for 5 minutes, puncturing the rounded sides, here and there, with the sharp point of a knife.

Turn the tomatoes with a palette knife and cook for a further 10 minutes. Turn again; then, after a couple of minutes, when the juices have started to run, turn them back so that the cut sides are facing upwards. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the cream between the tomatoes, add the mint or basil, then mix lightly with the juices. As soon as the cream bubbles, slip the tomatoes and the sauce onto hot plates. Serve immediately.

Times Recommends

• How to season a wok
• Chicago Rib Shack hits back at its critics
• Gordon Ramsay: Indian barbecue