Any grilled food cries out for savoury compound butters. Picture it slowly melting over charred meat or fish – it will quickly set the saliva dribbling. Mustard is a must with steak – use a coarsely ground seed variety, such as Moutarde Fins Gourmets, from Maille.

Serves 2

125g unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
1 small clove of garlic, peeled and chopped
1 tsp tarragon vinegar
4-5 sprigs of fresh tarragon leaves, chopped
1 rounded tsp mustard
½ tsp Colman’s English mustard powder
Scant ½ tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 fillet steaks
Olive oil, for brushing
Salt and pepper

First, make the butter. Put the butter, garlic, vinegar, tarragon, mustard, mustard powder, salt and pepper into an electric mixer (or food processor) and beat together until smooth and homogenised. Dampen a sheet of greaseproof paper and spoon on the butter in a rough log shape. Roll up the paper to form a proper log, tightening as you go, then twist the ends. Wrap this in a sheet of strong kitchen foil and put in the fridge to chill.

Heat a ribbed stove-top griddle pan until very hot. Brush the steaks with oil and season. Grill on both sides until they are cooked to your liking. Place on a warmed platter, cover with foil and leave to rest for 3-4 minutes. Put each steak on a hot plate, garnish with 2 or 3 discs of butter sliced from the log (any remaining butter will freeze well) and serve. Chips and a green salad? Why ever not?

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