This dish was inspired by the pigeon with peas at Chez l’Ami Louis, a much-loved bistro I often visit in Paris. As it is difficult to find French pigeons in Britain, I have opted for quails treated in a similar fashion.

Serves 2

1 thick slice of pancetta or streaky bacon, skin on, cut into 1cm cubes
25g butter
Salt and pepper
4 quails
12 small button onions, peeled
4-5 cloves of garlic
1 glass of white wine
2 tbsp strong jellied poultry stock
1-2 sprigs of fresh sage
1kg fresh peas, podded (as an alternative, use tinned peas – drained – rather than frozen)

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4.

In a shallow ovenproof pan or dish, gently fry the pancetta in the butter until golden brown. Remove to a plate and reserve. Season the quails and, in the pancetta fat, colour them on all sides. Remove and set aside with the pancetta. Now add the onions and garlic to the pan and gently gild them, too. Pour in the wine and allow to reduce by a third before adding the stock. Stir in the sage, tip in the peas and reintroduce the quails and pancetta. Bring to a simmer, season to taste, cover and place in the oven for 30-40 minutes. If you wish, remove the cover for the last 10 minutes to give it a final browning.

Extracted and adapted from Week in Week Out by Simon Hopkinson, photographs by Jason Lowe (Quadrille £20). To order for £16 (inc p&p), call The Sunday Times BooksFirst, 0870 165 8585

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