It is a delightful necessity that this should be served with a good crusty loaf and some lovely cold butter.

Serves 4-6

2 braces of arbroath smokies
50g unsalted butter
2 medium onions, diced
1 little sprig of thyme
2 sticks of celery, sliced
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
6 medium leeks, sliced
150ml single cream
1 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tsp chopped chives

Heat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4.

Place a sheet of baking parchment on a tray, lay on the smokies and cook in the oven for five minutes. Remove, and when the smokies are cool enough, take off their skin and gently pull the flakes of fish away from the bones. Discard the bones and place the flesh to one side.

Warm a large pot over a gentle heat and melt the butter. Tip in the onion, thyme and celery and cook gently for about 20 minutes until softened. Wash the diced potatoes until the water runs clear. Drain and add to the pot with the leeks and 850ml water, then simmer for 45-60 minutes.

Pour the cream into the soup and, when bubbling, add the fish. Remove from the heat immediately, scatter with the chopped herbs and serve.

Blueprint Café, Design Museum, Shad Thames, SE1; 020 7378 7031, www.blueprintcafe.co.uk

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