Purists say you shouldn’t add anything to oysters but a squeeze of lemon or a dash of Tabasco. Personally, I’ve always preferred shallot vinegar, and I think oysters also work surprisingly well with the sharply fragrant flavours of the east.

Reckon on at least 6 oysters per person (see below for how to shuck). Each of the sauces below will dress at least 2 dozen

Oysters – as many as you want

SHALLOT VINEGAR

2 small shallots, very finely chopped
5 tbsp redwine vinegar (or cider vinegar)
1 tsp caster sugar
Black pepper

Mix together the ingredients, add a grind of black pepper, then let them get to know each other for an hour before serving.

CHILLI, LIME AND CORIANDER DRESSING

1 long red chilli, deseeded and then very finely chopped
2 tsp sugar
4 tbsp fresh lime juice
2 tbsp fish sauce
1 tbsp coriander leaves, finely chopped

Simply mix the ingredients and leave for an hour before serving.

GINGER AND SOY SAUCE DRESSING

1 tbsp fresh ginger, very finely chopped
1 tbsp spring onion, very finely chopped
4 tbsp rice wine vinegar
2 tsp light soy sauce

Mix the ingredients and allow the flavours to mingle for an hour before serving.

HOW TO SHUCK AN OYSTER

Go and get an oyster knife – you can’t really do this without one.

1 Hold the knife in your strongest hand and wrap the other hand in a tea towel to protect it. Pick up an oyster in the towelled hand, with the curved side down and the narrow end towards you.

2 Insert the oyster knife in the hinge at the narrow end, and wiggle it about a bit from left to right. You will have to press quite hard, but eventually the hinge will give way, allowing you to lift the flat top shell by twisting the knife upward.

3 Slide the knife along the underside of the flat shell to cut the ligament that connects to the oyster. Remove top shell.

4 Keeping the bottom shell level (you don’t want to lose the juices), remove any splinters of shell, then cut underneath the oyster to release it, so the flesh will slide off easily when the shell is tilted.

5 Arrange the oysters in their half shells on a bed of crushed ice or coarse sea salt.

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