I can’t take the credit for the idea of using uncooked smoked haddock in this way: it comes from the River Café. But I’ve taken the liberty of adding some thinly sliced fennel bulb, which I think works rather well.

Do not use dyed atomic-yellow haddock; naturally smoked, from a trusted fishmonger, is the only option here.

Serves 4

1 bulb of fennel
500g naturally smoked, undyed haddock fillets
Juice of 1-2 lemons
A few rocket leaves
1 tsp fennel seeds
Freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil

Remove the tough outer layers from the fennel. Keep any green fronds. Slice the inside of the bulb as thinly as you can, then toss with the juice of half a lemon to stop it going brown. Place a few slices of fennel on four plates, so that they cover about half the surface of each (you may not need the whole fennel bulb).

Using a long, sharp, flat-bladed knife, cut wafer-thin slices horizontally from the smoked haddock fillets – you want to end up with a pale and interesting take on smoked salmon. I wouldn’t worry too much about perfection; it’s almost impossible to cut immaculately, and a little raggedness is charming. Do, though, pluck out any stray bones. At this stage, if the thought of raw fish worries you, mix it with the remaining lemon juice and leave in the fridge for half an hour. The acid will “cook” the fish.

Divide the fish between the four plates, overlapping slightly with the fennel. If you are using the fish raw, squeeze the lemon juice over each plate of fish. Add a minimal scattering of rocket leaves, then strew artistically with a few fennel fronds, a pinch of fennel seeds and a grinding of pepper. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil before serving.

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