This fragrant, amber-coloured pudding is an adaptation of Eliza Acton’s Christmas pudding, which she describes as “remarkably light, small and rich”. It can be made on the day you eat it, or you can make it as far ahead as you wish, provided you boil it once a week for about 10 minutes. The more you boil it, the darker it will become. You need a 750ml pudding basin (15cm diameter). Boiling time is 3½ hours.

Serves 6

Sunflower or vegetable oil
170g raisins
170g currants
55g chopped mixed peel
1 organic orange, finely grated and juiced
1 organic lemon, finely grated and juiced
100ml Rémy Martin cognac (plus 3 tbsp to be set alight)
85g white breadcrumbs
85g plain flour
170g shredded suet (beef or vegetarian)
115g bramley apple (peeled and cored weight), roughly grated
140g unrefined caster sugar
½ tsp mixed spice
A pinch of salt
3 medium eggs

Lightly oil a 750ml pudding basin. Measure and cut out a disc of greaseproof paper to fit as a lid. In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients thoroughly – remember to make a wish.

Fill the basin with the pudding mixture and top with the greaseproof paper disc. Cover this with a pleated square of foil, scrunching the edges around the rim of the basin so that it is watertight. Place in a saucepan and add enough boiling water to come up two-thirds of the side of the basin. Cover and set over a medium heat. Boil briskly for a good 3½ hours, refilling regularly with more boiling water – this is extremely important.

Once cooked, the pudding can either be set aside, then reheated in boiling water later, or kept warm in the hot water and served when you are ready.

To reheat from cold, boil for an hour on the cooker top when the hob is relatively free from other pans, then keep hot in the hot water while you’re eating the main course.

To serve, remove the lid and paper covering, loosen with a knife and invert onto a serving plate. Slip on a sprig of berried holly (remember that holly berries are poisonous, and should not be eaten). Then warm 3 tbsp of Rémy Martin, pour it over the pudding, set alight and serve with orange crème fraîche.

TO SERVE WITH IT ...

Orange crème fraîche is a delicious alternative to brandy butter. It can be made the day before it is needed – just remix it before serving. Combine the zest of 1 organic orange, finely grated, 200ml crème fraîche, 2 tbsp icing sugar (or to taste) and 2 tbsp Grand Marnier. Stir until thick, then cover and chill.

Times Recommends

• Gordon Brown’s favourite pud
• Five-spice butternut soup
• How to make popcorn and crisps