There is nobody to whom I wouldn’t serve shepherd’s pie, and I’ve never come across a situation in which it is unwelcome. The most important thing to keep in mind is that it needs to be extremely flavourful. And make sure you skim the surplus fat off the meat mixture before layering the potato on top – there will be more than usual because of the chorizo.

Serves 12

750g fresh cooking chorizo
3 large carrots, finely chopped
3 large onions, chopped
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and squashed under a knife
Olive oil
2kg lamb mince
400g tin of chopped tomatoes
500ml red wine
500ml chicken or lamb stock
3 fresh bay leaves
1 bunch of thyme
1 tsp English mustard
Dash of Worcestershire sauce
Dash of Tabasco
Dash of tomato ketchup
Salt and pepper
1kg floury potatoes such as maris piper
1kg sweet potatoes
250ml milk
175g butter

Squeeze the chorizo out of its skin, breaking it up as you go, and fry in a large pan until it colours gently and releases its oils. Add the carrots, onions and garlic, and fry in the chorizo fat (with a little extra olive oil if necessary) until softened, then add the lamb mince. Cook, turning, until thoroughly browned. Add the chopped tomatoes, wine, stock, herbs, mustard and a generous dash each of the Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and ketchup. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently, with the lid on, for an hour. Remove the lid for the last 15 minutes or so until the mixture reduces to a consistency you like.

Skim off any surplus fat and pick out the bay leaves and thyme stalks. Check for seasoning – you may want to add more Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco, as well as salt and pepper. It’s easy to forget how bland it can become with all that potato on top.

Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and sweet potatoes. Chop and boil the two varieties together for 25 minutes, or until tender. Drain and crush with a masher. Heat the milk to boiling point and add to the potatoes, along with the butter. Mash energetically and season generously.

Place the meat in an ovenproof dish and top with the mash, scraping a fork along the surface so the ridges can bake to a crunch.

When you are ready to eat, preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4, and bake for 45 minutes or until the top is golden and the meat is bubbling up the sides. Serve with a mountain of peas.

How to Feed Your Friends with Relish by Joanna Weinberg (Bloomsbury £20)

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