This classic chilli, garlic and anchovy combination works well with most dark greens – try it with normal or purple sprouting broccoli as well.

Serves 4

Small tin of anchovies in olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
Good pinch of dried chilli flakes
500g curly kale or cavolo nero
400g orecchiette (or other dome-shaped pasta)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt
Parmesan cheese or grana padano
Juice of 1 lemon, optional

In a frying pan, heat the anchovies with their oil. Stir over a gentle heat until they have disintegrated. Add the garlic and chilli flakes, stir for 30 seconds or so, then remove from the heat and set to one side.

Strip the kale leaves from the tough stems. Discard the stems and roughly chop the leaves.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the instructions on the packet. Five minutes before the end, stir in the kale leaves and continue cooking until the pasta is al dente. Drain the pasta and kale thoroughly in a colander, shaking off as much excess liquid as possible. Then add them to the anchovy mixture.

Return to a gentle heat and stir in a good glug of olive oil, plus pepper and, if you think it needs it, a little salt. Stir well, then divide between four bowls. Mix in a handful of grated parmesan or grana padano before serving. You could also add the merest squeeze of lemon juice – I will leave that up to your taste buds.

Times Recommends

• Gontran Cherrier: France’s hottest baker
• Chocolate lollipops
• Six of the best value Chilean wines