Grey squirrel is a fine-tasting meat, not unlike free-range chicken. This is a wonderfully fast way to eat meat, ideal if you are tired and hungry.

It will provide your body with protein, starch and calories. It is delicious dipped in home-made aioli and it is absolutely delicious with beer, if you can find a local brewery on your travels.

Feeds 4-6

Ingredients

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2–3 squirrel (or 2 chicken breasts or 300–400g pork tenderloin)

1 tablespoon fish sauce or soy sauce

50g arrowroot

vegetable oil, for frying

For the spiced salt:

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon allspice

1 blade of mace

75g salt

1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme or sage leaves (optional)

Method: How to make spiced squirrel popcorn

1. To make the spiced salt, using a pestle and mortar grind all the spices into a fine powder and mix this into the salt with the herbs (if using).

2. Take the meat off the squirrel and cut it into thin slivers. Toss the meat in the fish or soy sauce and then in the arrowroot.

3. Heat the oil in a large deep pan over a high heat until it is shimmering. Test the heat by touching the oil with a piece of meat. If it sizzles, the oil is hot enough to fry the squirrel. Do this in small batches, so that the pieces do not crowd the pan and thus bring down the temperature of the oil.

4. When the squirrel has turned crispy and golden, remove it with a slotted spoon and drain on some kitchen paper. Sprinkle the spiced salt over it and serve.

Read more of Tommi's recipes at Times Online Real Food

The Wild Gourmets: Adventures in Food and Freedom by Guy Grieve, Thomasina Miers, published by Bloomsbury. RRP £20.

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