This is such an old-fashioned idea that I’m tempted to call it something a bit Hamlyn All Colour Cookbook, like “orange caramel crunch”. The caramel almonds are actually praline (the quantity below might well be more than you need; use the rest for sprinkling onto ice cream). Feel free to vary the amount of booze in both the oranges and the cream. I’ve erred on the side of sobriety.

Serves 6

75g caster sugar, plus 3-4 tbsp
75g unblanched almonds
6-8 oranges (including some blood oranges for colour, if you can still find them)
4 tbsp Cointreau
250ml double cream

Put a piece of greaseproof paper on a baking sheet. Put 75g caster sugar in a sturdy saucepan and place the almonds on top. Heat over a low flame, giving the pan an occasional gentle shake, until the sugar has melted to a smooth liquid caramel. It should take 6 or 7 minutes to become a dark golden brown. Don’t take your eye off it or it will burn. Stir to make sure the almonds are well coated. Tip the nuts and caramel onto the baking sheet, spread out and leave for 30 minutes to 1 hour, until cold and set. Once hard, put in a sealed sandwich bag and crush lightly by bashing with a rolling pin.

Peel the oranges, removing all the pith. Either split into segments or cut into fine slices, holding the fruit over a bowl to catch the juice. Add the pieces to the bowl, then stir in the remaining sugar to taste, along with 2 tbsp Cointreau.

Whip the cream with the rest of the Cointreau until it forms soft, lolloping clouds.

My schoolboy tendency means I pile this into Duralex tumblers: a layer of oranges sprinkled with praline, then a generous puff of cream, and more praline on top to finish. I suggest you do the same.

Times Recommends

• How to season a wok
• Chicago Rib Shack hits back at its critics
• Gordon Ramsay: Indian barbecue