Morels are the only big-league gastro mushrooms to appear in spring. The fresh ones are expensive – about £35 per kg the last time I looked – and dried ones can be elusive. If you can’t track down either, use dried chanterelles or other wild mushrooms. It will be different, but it will still be good.

Serves 3-4

25g dried or 150g fresh morels, halved if large
200ml hot chicken stock
Butter
Olive oil
6 skin-on chicken pieces on the bone (thighs and drumsticks)
2 small shallots, finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
100ml madeira (or dry sherry, or even port)
3 tbsp crème fraîche
Salt and pepper
Small handful of parsley, chopped

If you are using dried morels (or other dried mushrooms), put them in a bowl, pour over the hot stock, stir and leave to soak. Morels will need 30 minutes to 1 hour; other types might take longer. (It should tell you on the packet.) When they have softened, squeeze the juice back into the stock, remove the mushrooms and check for grit. Keep both stock and mushrooms to one side. Fresh morels need to be rinsed in cold water to get rid of any dirt, then patted dry.

Heat a small knob of butter and a good glug of oil in a large pan (with a lid) that will hold the chicken pieces in a single layer. Add the chicken and brown well on all sides for 8-10 minutes over a medium heat. If the pieces are too crowded, do them in two batches.

Shift the chicken onto a plate. Throw the shallots and garlic into the pan and stir for about 1 minute until they start to soften. Add the morels and cook for another minute or so, stirring occasionally. Turn up the heat, throw in the booze and bubble for 1 minute.

Return the chicken to the pan and pour in the chicken stock. (If you used dried mushrooms, this will be the soaking liquid – stop pouring before you get to the gritty bits at the bottom.) Cover and simmer gently for 25 minutes.

Remove the chicken and mushrooms, turn up the heat and bubble for 5-10 minutes until the sauce has thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the crème fraîche. Season, add the chicken and morels, then gently reheat. Scatter with parsley and serve with rice, mash, noodles or anything soft and comforting.

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