Serves 4

Cold butter

2 small shallots, finely chopped

500g black cherries, pitted

1 bushy sprig of thyme

75ml port

1 tbsp sugar

1½ tbsp red-wine vinegar

4 duck breasts, skin on

Watercress, to serve

Salt and pepper

Melt a knob of butter in a frying pan. Add the shallots and sweat over a medium heat until soft — about 3 minutes.

Add everything else except the duck breasts and watercress, season well, and leave to bubble over a gentle heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cherries are semi-collapsed.

Meanwhile, make a crisscross pattern in the duck skin with a sharp knife. Season on both sides. Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat and cook the breasts, skin side down, for 8-10 minutes, until the skin is crisp and dark golden brown and the breasts have given up most of their fat. Tip off all but 1 tbsp of fat. Turn the breasts over and cook for 3-4 minutes more; big ones will need the full 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave in a warm place to rest for 5 minutes. They should be pink in the middle.

Remove the sauce from the heat and swirl in two large knobs of cold butter, one at a time, allowing the first to melt before you add the next.

Slice the duck breasts, keeping any juices. Arrange the meat prettily on plates with a bit of watercress and spoon over the juices. Serve the cherry sauce alongside or on top, as you see fit.

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