Joanna Weinberg
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Everyone overpacks to go on holiday. We fish out anything languishing at the back of the wardrobe in the hope that it will finally have its moment. Yet all we need are a few versatile pieces - after all, we'll probably end up in the same pair of shorts for the duration.
For holiday cooking, the principle is much the same. You need to eat well but this is not the time to experiment. You want no hassle, supermarkets or menu- planning, just a fridge stocked with familiar characters who can see you through a week whatever the weather.
If you are going away, don't be tempted to take the entire contents of your kitchen cupboard to ensure variety - you will end up wasting much of it and having picky, cold meals that never quite make sense.
Rather, the trick is to take a decent quantity of top-quality, unsquashable kitchen basics. You can accessorise these with local bounty - fat, scented tomatoes from the Isle of Wight, for instance, or gleaming mussels picked from the beach in Scotland. Don't be afraid to ditch the traditional idea of the meal: sitting on your stoop on a glorious evening, gazing at the view, armed with a bacon sandwich or a bowl of chicken and lentils and a couple of cold beers, is surely a respectable enough dinner for anyone.
In even the best-equipped rental property, kitchen kit tends to be an issue. There seem always to be too many saucepans but no decent knife. Expect nothing and you'll be delighted when you find that there is a tin opener and a colander after all. You can do a lot with a sharp knife, and a sieve is often useful, so it's a good idea to take both with you. Much else can be made up as you go along: a bottle of wine does well as a rolling pin, and garlic can always be smashed under the blade of a knife and chopped with salt until smooth.
You really need cook only one meal a day - the other can be pickings, and you will probably eat out more often than you expect, too. To save time and work, it's helpful to think ahead as you go along. Roast two chickens instead of one, and have the second in sandwiches and salad over the next few days. Likewise potatoes - if you are baking them, stick a few extra in the oven. When they are cooked, scoop out the insides and roll into a pattie with bacon and garlic, then fry - you'll be the hit of the holiday. Keep the skins, paint them with olive oil, season, bake fiercely and you have some hot, crunchy snacks to eat with drinks.
Make up a batch of lentils - they will sit happily in a fridge for the best part of a week - to add variety to almost any meal. With extra stock, they can make a hearty soup if it turns cold. Remember risotto rice, too: it will turn any leftovers into a satisfyingly creamy risotto; cooked in plenty of salted water and drained, it will hold its shape and fill out any dish. And last but not least, bacon - it adds depth to almost anything: pasta, soups, salads, not to mention the all- important breakfast.
A word about bread: if you are in the middle of nowhere, finding a fresh loaf is often a serious challenge. If you would rather not rely on something that has been sitting, sliced, in plastic for the best part of a week, consider making some - I have included a stress-free recipe for a simple soda loaf. It takes five minutes to combine the ingredients and knead, then it goes straight in the oven. Take the habit back with you and home will smell of holiday all year round.
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