At a recent dinner I was introduced to Oisin (pronounced “osheen”) venison. This is young red deer from the Finnebrogue Estate in Northern Ireland. I used to think that venison lacked flavour, but this meat has a depth of flavour and tenderness that is quite divine. It works wonderfully with no heat applied at all as a carpaccio. But there is something about venison that cries out for it to be paired with fruits. Blackberries are arriving in the shops and will soon be on the bramble bushes. This gin-enriched relish brings a further dark stain to the plate to complement the dark flesh of the venison.

Ingredients
Serves 4 generously

Prep: 55 min

4tbs finely chopped shallots
150ml red wine vinegar
1/4 stick cinnamon
2 cloves
2 Bramley apples
4tbsp unrefined Demerara sugar
500g blackberries
100ml gin
1kg striploin of Oisin venison
Olive oil
1tbsp of unsalted butter
2 bunches watercress

METHOD

Place the shallots in a stainless-steel pan with the vinegar, cinnamon and cloves. Bring to the boil and simmer until the liquid has all but disappeared. Remove from the heat and take out the cinnamon and clove.

Peel the apples, dice them into small pieces and add to the pan with the sugar. Add a splash of water and cover. Return to a gentle heat and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the apples have broken down to a coarse pulp. Add the berries and cook for a further 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the gin. Taste, and if the relish is too sharp then stir in some more sugar. Set to one side.

Take the venison loin and, using the sharpest of knives, remove any sinew and cut the meat into four or five portions. Season well. Heat the oil in a frying pan and add the venison. Cook aggressively until each length is well browned (3 to 4 minutes). Turn down the heat and throw in the butter. Let it froth and begin to colour. The oil will prevent it from burning too quickly. Turn the meat in the butter for a further 2 minutes. Remove them from the pan and rest in a warm place for 10 minutes. Keep the butter/oil mixture.

To serve, place a dollop of compote in the middle of each plate. Slice each portion of venison into three pieces and arrange them on the compote. Add the juices from the resting dish to the butter and spoon a little over each plate. Finally, twist the leaves from the top of the watercress and garnish each plate with a handful.

Finnebrogue venison can be bought from the estate: www.finnebrogue.com. Marks & Spencer also stocks cuts.

Times Recommends

• Britain's Top 20 seaside fish and chip shops
• Ice cream makers: the scoop of the century
• British berries make super sorbets