There is absolutely nothing wrong with the idea of a burger. It’s what we have done with it that is shameful. We have turned it into a commodity that must be churned out at the cheapest possible price, in a form that can be eaten by people with no teeth and no time. The buns are made sweet to appeal to children, and the meat is cheap to appeal to the pocket.

But a burger can be a thing of beauty and quality if we reclaim it from the high street and take it home where it belongs.

The idea of mincing fresh, well-sourced, organic protein, forming it into a patty, cooking it quickly and lightly, and serving it with salad, vegetables or an interesting bread, is a good one.

It doesn’t even have to be beef, but could be fresh salmon spiked with shallots, capers, lemon zest and parsley.

I have modelled this recipe on the famous steak tartare, and added a little Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce and Dijon mustard as well. Even though the burgers are cooked and not raw like a tartare, they will be more delicious if left a little pink inside.

Use grilled ciabatta or soda bread farls as your bread, or do without bread altogether and simply serve the burgers on a bed of watercress, in which case you might like to throw in a few green beans or wilted greens as well, or serve them with oven-roasted potato wedges. You’ll never go out for a burger again when you can stay in for one.

Ingredients
Serves 4

Prep: 15 min plus resting
Cook: 10 min

600g fresh organic salmon fillet
1 shallot, finely minced
1tsp salted capers, rinsed
1tsp grated lemon zest
1tbsp finely chopped parsley or dill
Dash of Tabasco
Dash of Worcestershire
1tsp Dijon mustard
Sea salt and pepper
Small egg white
1tbsp olive oil
Ciabatta bread
2tbsp good mayonnaise
Watercress, washed
2 dill pickles, sliced lengthwise

Serve with finely sliced red onion and winter greens.

METHOD

Finely slice and then dice the salmon, removing any skin or pinbones. Mix with the shallot, capers, lemon zest, parsley, Tabasco, Worcestershire, mustard, sea salt, pepper and egg white, mulching well with your hands. Form into four flat, large patties and refrigerate for 30 mins to help them set. Heat the oil in a frying pan and transfer the patties carefully to the pan.

Sear on one side until crusty, then turn gently and cook briefly on the other side. Split the ciabatta and grill lightly. Spread the base with mayonnaise, top with the watercress, the salmon and dill pickles, and serve hot.

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