Serves 4

- 400g purple-sprouting broccoli, trimmed

- 1 small clove of garlic, crushed

- 6 anchovy fillets in olive oil (brown, not white ones)

- 2 egg yolks

- ½ tsp dijon mustard

- 1 tbsp red-wine vinegar

- 150ml vegetable oil

- 2 tbsp extra-virgin

- olive oil

- Salt and pepper

Steam the broccoli for 6-7 minutes until tender (slit the stems lengthways if necessary, so they soften before the flower heads disintegrate). Meanwhile, blend the garlic and anchovy fillets (without the oil from the tin) to give a smooth, salty paste. Put into a small bowl and mix with the egg yolks, mustard and vinegar. Next, gradually beat in the oils, a drop at a time at first, to give a thick sauce. Season well, then thin with 2-3 tbsp water, to the consistency of double cream.

Drain the broccoli and throw it into a bowl of cold water to stop it cooking. Drain again and pat dry with kitchen towel if necessary. Divide between plates and pour over some of the anchovy dressing. Eat with your fingers, and good bread for mopping up.ORANGE SALAD WITH BASIL

The cleansing freshness of fruit is sometimes all you want at the end of a meal, especially as the weather warms up. Teamed with the oranges, basil’s peppery, fragrant astringency tastes unexpectedly exotic.

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