As a child globe artichoke dipped in beurre noir was the greatest treat we could have at this time of year, despite being one of the cheapest suppers my mother would cook us. That we were allowed to eat with our fingers all the way through supper and get as messy as we liked was the first thrill. I still remember the excitement at being able to fiddle with the artichokes as much as I liked without being told off.

A big bowl in the middle of the table caught all the leaf discards and, as they slowly mounted up, we would get closer to the heart of the chokes. This was the best bit. The remainder of the salty, nut-brown butter would be poured into our little butter bowls and slabs of fresh bread would be sliced. Then we would dunk the hearts into the butter, sprinkled with more Maldon salt, and mop all of it up with pieces of the torn fresh bread. That would be it . . . the best supper of the year for next to nothing.

The Italians have it right in their reverence for seasonal vegetables. Cheap, nutritious, delicious, accessible and with hundreds of ways to cook them, they really are something to get excited about.

I remember Joe Trivelli, my former flatmate, bringing some of his father’s artichokes back from the family garden in Italy. Joe sliced them raw for me, drizzled them in his father’s home-made olive oil and we ate them like that, dressed with a squeeze of lemon and some black pepper.

Of course it is hard to get hold of vegetables this fresh and tender, so if you don’t have an Italian garden at your disposal, or at least a very good greengrocer, I would advise cooking your artichokes. I love them slow-cooked in plenty of olive oil, as in the recipe; a simple but delectable supper.

I also love baby artichokes cooked soft, flattened and fried until crisp, accompanied by a squeeze of lemon and perhaps an aïoli if you are feeling decadent (I could eat mayonnaise with practically anything). Or slice up artichokes in a salad as a starter dressed with a light vinaigrette. For another complete supper, stuff them with breadcrumbs, fennel, garlic, lemon zest and olive oil and bake them in the

oven until golden (perhaps sprinkled with a little cheese). Whichever way you do decide to eat them, enjoy the fact that, even if you douse them in oil or butter, you are eating a healthy plate of vegetables, delicious as they are, and without spending much money.

No wonder the Italians always look so pleased with themselves.

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