Whether or not you peel the bits depends on you and the squash — thin-skinned varieties such as butternut don’t generally need peeling; the thicker-skinned ones usually do.

Serves 4

2 medium red onions, peeled and halved

500g winter squash, deseeded, peeled if necessary, and cut into 1-2cm-thick half-moons or similar chunks

Salt and pepper

2 bushy sprigs of rosemary

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 stick of celery, finely chopped

2 decent cloves of garlic, finely chopped

1 bay leaf

250g puy lentils

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

200g soft white goat’s cheese

Heat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4. Finely chop one of the onion halves and keep to one side. Cut each of the remaining halves into four wedges. Put in a roasting tin with the squash, season well, then scatter with the leaves from one sprig of rosemary and splash liberally with olive oil. Put in the oven for 40-45 minutes, turning midway through, until the squash and onions are soft.

Meanwhile, heat a couple of tbsp of olive oil in a saucepan, then add the chopped onion half, the celery, garlic and bay leaf, plus the chopped leaves from the other sprig of rosemary. Cook over a gentle heat for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables have softened, then add the lentils and 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 30 minutes, until just soft. Drain off all but 4-5 tbsp of the liquid, then add ½-1 tsp of salt, tasting as you go, and plenty of ground pepper. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and 2 tbsp olive oil.

Divide the lentils between four bowls and scatter the top with the onions, squash and any oil and herbs from the baking tray. Dot with the goat’s cheese, season again and add a splash more olive oil.

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