At last it is Easter, and there is a legitimate excuse to gather around the table and eat and drink too much. Blimey, it’s been a long haul since Christmas, hasn’t it?

But let’s not turn Easter into the trial by stove that Christmas has become. Instead, take it easy by inviting the hungry hordes to a long and leisurely Easter brunch.

Serve up fluffy cheese omelettes, a celebratory ham that lets you cut-and-come-again, and something rich and chocolatey that isn’t wrapped in brightly coloured foil.

The classic omelette soufflé was once, according to my mother, more popular than the flat omelette we know today. Thank heavens it is coming back into fashion, because it is unbelievably light and delicious yet can be simply made in a frying pan without the angst that often accompanies soufflé-making. It’s a real showstopper when taken to the table puffed-up in its pan — or you might prefer to save it for a special meal for just the two of you.

Set out a glazed baked ham that can either be eaten with the omelettes or turned into a salad with beetroot and watercress.

Finish with chocolate brownies, dressed up for Easter with a white-chocolate drizzle.

If you really want nothing to do, just buy a huge cooked ham and make it centre stage all weekend, from salads to sandwiches.

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