I worked on this dish a couple of years ago when I decided I wanted to have it on the menu, as it originated in Eton College, which is just down the road from my restaurant in Bray. There is some discussion as to what fruit was in the original Eton mess. It is definitely either strawberry or banana, as they were both used, but which one came first? Odds are on the banana, which is what I have used for this recipe. What is so wonderful about this dessert is that it cannot be improved upon.

I tried getting all fancy with it, but, in the end, all my variations lost the magic of the original crisp meringue, lightly whipped cream and macerated fruit mixed into a messy pile of deliciousness.

ETON MESS

Serves 4

For the meringue
100g egg whites
100g caster sugar
100g icing sugar

For the mess
4 bananas
2 tbsp lime juice
200ml double cream
Seeds of 2 vanilla pods
1 tbsp kirsch
Grated zest of 4 limes

Preheat the oven to its lowest setting (110C/ 225F/Gas Mark ) and line a baking tray with parchment. Beat the egg whites until very stiff — this is important as they must stay stiff when the sugar is added. Beat in the caster sugar, then the icing sugar. Spoon the meringue mix onto a baking tray, in 12 even shapes. Cook for 4 hours, or overnight. They should be crisp all the way through, with no colour. Turn the oven off, open the door and leave the meringues inside so they cool down slowly.

Peel the bananas. Purée 2 of them with half the lime juice. Cut the other 2 bananas into 3mm-thick slices and mix with the remaining lime juice to prevent them browning. Whisk the cream until stiff — being careful not to overwhip it — and stir into the crushed or puréed banana. Then fold in the vanilla seeds and kirsch.

Break the cool meringue into large pieces, mix with the banana cream and the sliced bananas. Spoon into a bowl and grate over the lime zest before serving.

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