2 for 1 at Pizza Express
With luck and good weather, the forthcoming four-day weekend should be a time
of much festivity and feasting. There will be garden parties for those with
gardens, and street parties for those with streets. But what are we cooking?
Mrs A. O’Shaughnessy, of Limpley Stoke, Bath, wants to recreate the lunch
menu that was served at Buckingham Palace after the Queen’s Coronation.
“My Women’s Institute is putting on a special lunch for the village on jubilee
day using, as far as possible, this royal menu,” she wrote, “and
bring-your-own champagne of course! Can you find out what was served?” The
Private Secretary to the Queen has kindly sent me the following Coronation
menu from the Buckingham Palace files for June 1952. The meal began with
Consommé Royale (chicken consommé garnished with cubes of cooked egg
custard) and went on to Filet de Boeuf à la Mascotte, a fillet of beef
garnished with sliced artichoke hearts tossed in butter with cocotte
potatoes and slices of truffle. This was followed by a salad, before the
meal finished with Glace à la Mangue (mango ice-cream). The recipe for
Consommé Royale is in The Constance Spry Cookery Book.
The dish most associated with the Coronation, the famous coronation chicken,
was one of the dishes served at another, later, luncheon to honour the
Commonwealth heads of state. It was considered rather shocking when
Constance Spry and Rosemary Hume included such “foreign” ingredients as
curry powder and mango in subtle reference to the provenance of the guests,
but the nation took the dish to its collective heart, and it has so far
borne up well under the strain.
With that invincible British spirit in mind, I offer some new ideas for
Jubilee holiday weekend entertaining that should keep us well fed and
fuelled for the festivities — if not for the next 50 years.
jill.dupleix@thetimes.co.uk
Ingredients
Makes 16. Takes 10 mins.
This may be blindingly simple as a concept, but it is also endlessly flexible.
The cucumber rounds give you the freshness and crunch, and can carry all
manner of sympathetic flavours. Here, it is smoked salmon, but they are just
as good with lightly poached, flaked fresh salmon; with crab salad or fresh
prawns.
1 long cucumber
2 tbsp horseradish sauce
8 slices smoked salmon
Maldon sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
16 flat-leaf parsley sprigs
16 salted capers
Peel the cucumber lengthwise leaving a few thin strips of skin for decorative
effect. Cut the cucumber into 1cm slices – you should get about 32 slices —
and arrange half the slices on a board.
Dab a little horseradish sauce on each one, just enough to help the salmon
stay in place. Cut each slice of salmon in half. Fold each half loosely and
arrange on top of the cucumber. Season with salt and pepper and top with
another cucumber slice.
Arrange the canapés on a serving platter, and top with another little dab of
horseradish. Press a parsley leaf and a salted caper into the horseradish,
and serve.
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