WITH 56 days of the asparagus season to go, that is not near enough time to tire of fat, juicy, chlorophyllic asparagus dipped in a pool of butter, or thin sprues strewn over grills and roasts, or finely chopped asparagus folded into omelettes, frittatas, egg and bacon pies, or pasta dishes with ham and cream.

So far this week I have teamed asparagus with springlike flavours including broad beans, peas and mangetout, nutty parmesan cheese (for which it has a real affinity), walnut oil, lemon juice, fresh crab meat and wok-fried chicken with garlic, ginger and shiitake mushrooms. Each recipe allows the fresh, grassy taste of asparagus to be the star, yet somehow it is enhanced by its choice of companions.

This is particularly true of asparagus and seafood, one of the finest meetings of land and sea. Try grilling asparagus spears alongside fat little sardines for a weekend lunch, or serving seared salmon on a bed of steamed sprue. Scatter shrimps over steamed asparagus and drizzle with a peppery lemon butter. Asparagus and smoked salmon are dinner party stars, and scallops seem sweeter teamed with their grassy, earthy flavour, as they are in this asparagus risotto.

If you have some broad beans, pod and blanch them as well, then peel off the skins to reveal the beans and add them with the asparagus.

Ingredients
Serves 4

Prep: 15 min
Cook: 45 min

1tbsp butter
1tsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
350g risotto rice, unwashed
150ml white wine
1.2 litres chicken stock or more
500g asparagus
Ground nutmeg
Sea salt and pepper
1tbsp butter
2tbsp grated parmesan
1 extra tbsp olive oil
8 sea scallops, trimmed

METHOD

Heat the oil and butter in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion for 10 minutes until soft but not browned. Add the rice and stir to coat well. Add the wine and stir well as it bubbles and reduces in volume by half.Start adding the chicken stock a ladleful at a time, stirring, over medium heat. Add more stock to keep the rice wet but allow it to absorb the liquid slowly and cook in the heat of the liquid. If you run out of stock, add water.

Meanwhile, chop the asparagus, having discarded the woody ends. Cook in simmering, salted water for 4 minutes. Drain and cool under cold running water. When the rice is just cooked, add the drained asparagus, nutmeg, salt and pepper, and fold through. Beat in the butter and cheese, cover and rest for 5 minutes. Heat the remaining olive oil and sear the scallops for 3 minutes on one side, one minute on the other.

Divide the risotto between four warm plates and arrange the scallops on top. Season and serve.

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