At what point do you relinquish the sustaining comfort of winter stodge and go for food of a more springlike lightness? For me, the point of no return is when I can happily sit down to a salad for lunch or dinner.

Luckily, spring obliges with its young fruits and vegetables, sweet shellfish, crisp greens and herbs. You can almost see shopping baskets get brighter every week, as clumps of mint and rocket, spears of chicory, rosy spring lamb and saffron-shelled crabs and langoustines appear in them.

Spring means that crabs and prawns are fairly priced once more, while sweet clams take over from mussels and native oysters. Langoustines, or scampi, are a treat, daubed with herb butter, grilled until warm and sweet and served on a bed of peppery rocket leaves.

Now is also the time for the creamy St George’s mushroom (Tricholomo gambosum) to pop up; and for bitter sorrel, stinging nettles and wild garlic shoots (Allium ursinum) to grow on river banks and in shady hedgerows.

Even the most poorly stocked supermarket will have chives and spring onions, spinach, beetroot, limes and the stalwart little gem (baby cos) lettuces, all demanding to be showcased in a series of light, crisp, spring salads that will pave the way to summer.

www.jilldupleix.com

Jill Dupleix’s Simple Food is published in paperback on June 8 at £12.99. Signed copies are available now from Books Direct (0870 160 8080; www.timesonline.co.uk/booksdirect) for £10.39 plus £1.95 p&p.

Ingredients
Feeds 4. Takes 1 hour 10 mins.

This is the salad you have when you’re not quite sure you’re ready for a salad, a happy transition from the winter roast to the summer salad. The vegetables you use are up to you — choose from sweet potatoes, potatoes, carrots, parsnip, aubergine, sweet red peppers and the like.

3 medium all-purpose potatoes
1 sweet potato
2 red onions
1tbsp thyme sprigs
1tsp dried oregano
2tbsp olive oil
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
200g spinach leaves, washed

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:

2tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1tbsp red wine vinegar
1tsp Dijon mustard
1tsp salted capers, rinsed
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 200C/Gas mark 6. Peel the potatoes, and the sweet potatoes, cut them in half lengthwise, then cut each half into fingers. Peel the onions and cut into quarters.

Arrange the potatoes, sweet potato and onions in a baking tray, scatter with herbs and drizzle with olive oil, tossing well. Bake for 45 minutes to one hour, turning once or twice, until browned and tender. Add the cherry tomatoes for the last 15 minutes of cooking.

To make the vinaigrette, whisk the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, capers, salt and pepper in a bowl until creamy, and whisk in a dash of water to lighten it. Toss the spinach and cherry tomatoes in the dressing, and arrange half on the plates. Arrange the vegetables on top, interleaving them with the remaining spinach leaves and tomatoes, and serve.

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