Jane MacQuitty
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Whites
2005 Pouilly Fumé, Domaine Thibault, André Dezat et Fils, France, Tanners (01743 234500), £10.20; Lay & Wheeler (01473 313233), £11.30.
The Dezat family’s lively, leafy and distinctly classy white currant and nettle-stacked pouilly, from their ten-hectare Domaine de Thibault estate, is, like some of the Loire’s smoky, gunflint-scented sauvignons, well capable of ageing. So see if you can resist the temptation of cracking open every bottle you buy this summer.
2005 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine du Pavillon, Albert Bichot, France, Oddbins, £9.99.
Fatter, richer and riper than most bourgogne blanc, and blessed with a wonderful, smoky, toasted-hazelnut scent and elegant palate, this fine white burgundy comes from grapes usually reserved for meursault and is aged partly in new oak. Add in the superb 2005 burgundy vintage, and Albert Bichot’s wine expertise, and it’s clear why this ended up in the Top 100.
2004 Chablis Laurent Tribut, France, Justerini & Brooks (020-7484 6400), £11.26.
Mature chablis, unless you have a cool cellar and know what to lay down, is hard to come by, but this wondrous, fat, rich, nutty, almost butterscotchy, oak-aged white burgundy, stemming from one of the best chablis vintages in recent years and from the family-run, just five-hectare Tribut estate, gives you some of that distinctive chablis flavour.
2006 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Domaine Thibert Père et Fils, France, Waitrose, £9.49.
In the hands of a good grower who has well-sited vines and keeps yields down, the village of Vinzelles, south-east of Pouilly, is doing almost as well as the renowned Pouilly Fuissé, and offers a good-value alternative. So lap up this fine, ripe, appley, herby white burgundy, with plenty of the precocious 2006 vintage’s citrussy, faintly angelica-scented fruit, plus a long, leafy finish.
2005 Viré-Clessé, La Verchère, Christophe Cordier, France, Majestic, £14.99, down to £11.99 each if you buy two until July 5.
Light, lively, floral mâconnais whites do not have the same oomph as those of the Côte Chalonnaise and Côte d’Or to the north. Yet La Verchère is one of Cordier’s and the village of Viré’s best plots, and this fine, ripe, sweet, powerful hazelnut and glacé fruit-charged 2005 really does give you some of the Côte d’Or’s pizzazz at half the price.
2004 Rolly Gassmann, Terroirs des Châteaux Forts, Alsace, France, The Wine Society (01438 737700), £8.25; Cambridge Wine (01223 568991), £10.99.
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I entirely agree with Carole Chapman's view that Italian wines, BOUGHT IN ITALY, are often of superb quality and nearly always represents wonderful value for money. But Jane MacQuitty's recommendations necessarily concern products that are easily available to shoppers in the UK, and unfortunately not nearly enough wines of the quality Carole describes, with the degree of value for money she refers to, are exported outside Italy! I only wish they were.
Brian Bibby, London,
Why no Italian wines? Since coming to live in Italy 2 years ago we have been delighted and amazed at the quality, variety and value for money of Italian wine. From everyday pinot di rosa frizzante at 2.10 euros a bottle to gorgeously full bodied, barriqed Rosso Piceno at 5.20 euros in our award winning local cantina to Pinot Noir with a sophistication which would rival any French wine from another centuries old noble estate in our region at 15 euros, Italian wines can give anyone a run for their money. So go on, tell evryone about Italian wine - you won't regret it.
carole chapman, corridonia, italy