Whites

Star buy

2005 Puligny-Montrachet, Noyers Brets, Fernand & Laurent Pillot, France, Lea & Sandeman (020-7244 0522), down to £19.95 for Times readers until July 31.

Almost impossible to find good puligny-montrachet under £20 now, but this nutty, mouthwatering, glacé fruit and toasted hazelnut-layered white burgundy is a dream.

2005 Chablis Premier Cru, Mont de Milieu, Domaine Billaud-Simon, France, Montrachet (020-7928 1990), £16; Bon Coeur (020-7622 5244), £15.77.

One of the very best premiers crus on the right bank of the River Serein, this gorgeous ripe, leafy, lemon zest-styled chablis comes complete with a lovely, long steely finish.

2005 Riesling, Le Kottabe, Alsace, Josmeyer, France, Haynes, Hanson & Clark (020-7584 7927), £12.95; Waitrose (Canary Wharf), £13.95.

What you get from these hand-picked, 25-year-old riesling vines, some from the superior grand cru Brand and Hengst vineyards, is delicate, tart, dry, floral summer aperitif and fish-suitable fruit.

2004 Condrieu, Les Vins de Vienne, France, Tesco, £19.99.

What separates V de V from its more established rhône competition is its wines' pure fruit flavours, coupled with their hallmark appellation style. This elegant, ripe, smoky, hawthorn-scented white rhône oozes with the rich, perfumed, peachy flavours of the viognier grape.

2006 Pouilly Fuissé, Terroirs Rares, Christophe Cordier, France, Majestic, £15.99, or buy two for £14.99 each until September 3.

I can think of plenty of subtle white meat and fish dishes that work best with more understated white burgundies like this lively, smoky, floral 2006, complete with a fine, mouthwatering, lime-zest finish.

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