Joanna Simon
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Vintage stuff If you like the textbook gooseberry-and-grass flavours of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé or sauvignon blanc wines in general – and it seems that everyone does at the moment – this summer is made for you. The upper Loire, the sauvignon heartland, had a terrific 2006 vintage. In fact, the previous year was also very good, but the 2006 wines that have already arrived here seem to have the edge. (It’s the other way around in Muscadet because the western end of the Loire was hit by storms in September.)
The other encouraging feature of last year’s sauvignon haul in the Loire is that success was not limited to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. The smaller appellations nearby have produced some mouthwatering wines – and, being relatively unknown, are cheaper than their celebrity neighbours. The ones to keep an eye out for are Quincy, Reuilly and the more extensive Menetou-Salon.
Touraine, which covers a much larger area further downstream, also did well with its sauvignons in 2006. They don’t have the intensity and mineral-flinty flavours of the finest Sancerres and Pouilly-Fumés, but they make great-value alternatives.
2006 Domaine de Chevilly, Quincy, £8.50 Spicy, green fruit; lovely mineral edge (Stone, Vine & Sun, 01962 712351). 2006 Champteloup Selection, Touraine Sauvignon, £4.99 Vividly grassy, fruity sauvignon. Underpriced (Waitrose). 2006 Château Gaillard, Reuilly, £7.50 Intense ripe grapefruit and racy minerality (selected Marks & Spencer).
WINE OF THE MOMENT
2005 Mud House Vineyard Selection Pinot Noir
Why is it so hot right now? New Zealand is fast emerging as the best place outside Burgundy for the pinot noir grape, but not all the wines are as reasonably priced as this. Or as good.
What does it taste like? Utterly seductive: medium-full, with fresh, sweet cherry and plum fruit, delicate oak and a satin-smooth texture.
Who should you be drinking it with? You may not want to share it with many people, but it would be as good for a girls’ night in as for a smart dinner party. Only a curmudgeon could resist it.
What should you drink it with? Try salmon or tuna if you’re feeling fishy; otherwise, duck, chicken or pork. It’ll handle a steak, too, but not one laden with powerful sauces and spices. Or you could just enjoy it on its own.
What else can you do with it? Serve it cool. In fact, always serve it a few degrees below room temperature.
Where do you buy it and how much does it cost? Booths Supermarkets (www.booths-wines.co.uk), Stone, Vine & Sun (01962 712351), Planet of the Grapes (020 7405 4912), Bakers & Larners of Holt (01263 712323); £7.99-£10.
FLOWER POWER
As the superfood bandwagon rolls on, the latest in a long line is the hibiscus flower. Simply Hibi, made from infused hibiscus flowers, spouts health-improving claims, including cholesterol-reducing and anticancer properties. The virtuous among us can sip the dry, jam-scented juice neat – it's less sweet, and thus more refreshing, than most berry juices on the market. Alternatively, balance out its healthy goodness with a large slug of vodka.
Simply Hibi, £1.09 for 250ml, from Waitrose; www.simplyhibi.co.uk
ICE IS NICE ...
But do we want it in every drink? I blame Magners for the current fad for serving everything over ice. Ever since the Irish cider brand took bars by storm, other drinks producers have been desperate to get in on the act. This summer, we’ve already had Piper-Heidsieck’s piscine– champagne with ice cubes made of champagne – and Stormhoek’s Couture Rosé wine, created especially so that it doesn’t taste diluted when served on ice. Now Rémy Martin has launched Coeur de Cognac, “to be enjoyed neat over ice”. What next? Sherry on ice? Funny you should mention it. The sherry-on-ice campaign of the 1980s was a dismal failure. It’s the only time sherry has been ahead of its time.
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