There is a rare consensus among wine aficionados when it comes to sparkling wine. Champagne is King. There is simply no contest in terms of absolute quality. Champagne’s chilly northern latitude and distinctive chalky soil are key to its uniquely invigorating mineral bite.

These factors, allied to centuries of research by Benedictine monks into the perfect vineyard location for their three treasured grape varieties, chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, have contributed to the enormous success of France’s single most saleable wine “brand”.

Champagne’s key attributes are its purity, toasty complexity and sheer length of flavour. Good quality nonvintage champagnes from the well-known houses and serious growers retailing at the £20plus mark are very hard for the competition to beat on quality.

Where the New World can compete is on value for money. Australia and New Zealand offer good value in the sub£10 category. While lacking champagne’s piercing freshness and complexity, the pay-off is immediate appeal and an intensity of flavour. Wines in the £10-15 category have extra vitality and finesse and are a better buy.

Spanish cava can provide a straightforward, pleasing aperitif, but rarely anything more. Made in enormous quantities, it generally lacks vitality and lift. Far more compelling have been England’s recent success stories, with wineries such as Nyetimber and Ridgeview winning plaudits. Only the relatively small volumes produced – and retail prices nudging those of the Champenois – prevent greater commercial success.

— Jeremy Lee is a wine consultant

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