2006 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling, Mosel, Dr Wagner, Germany, Waitrose, £6.49.
The Saar produces some of the Mosel’s steeliest and most thrilling rieslings, just like this one, whose lively, racy palate makes a perfect off-dry winter aperitif.

2006 Feiler-Artinger Beerenauslese, Burgenland, Austria, Waitrose, half bottle £9.99.
Decent sub-£10 dessert wines are a rarity still, so thank goodness for this elegant, grapey Austrian, whose hotchpotch of grapes including chardonnay delivers unusual spicy, aromatic oomph.

2006 Les Vignes de Nicole Chardonnay-Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France, Majestic Wine, £7.49 or buy two for £5.99 each.
Canny blends like this two thirds chardonnay to one third viognier mix have been some of the most successful new-wave whites from southern France, so hoover up its delicate, peachy fruit.

2006 Cabernet de Cabernet, Vin de Pays d’Oc, Paul Mas, France, Majestic Wine, £6.24 or buy two for £4.99 each.
Terrific new combo from Languedoc wine wizard Paul Mas, a 50-50 mix of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, tailor-made for roasted red meats.

2006 Morellino di Scansano, Serpaia, Maremma, Tuscany, Italy, Adnams (01502 727222), £7.99.
The Morellino di Scansano reds from the southern Tuscan coast make a welcome change from chianti, especially this one from the Endrizzi family’s Serpaia estate with its lively, cherry-charged fruit.

2002 Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine Henri Germain, France, Adnams, £17.50.
2002 is one of the top red burgundy vintages of the decade so far and this chunky red displays some delicious rich, ripe, beetrooty fruit that would go down well with milder game meats.

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