Jeremy Lee
2 for 1 at Pizza Express
The influence of Robert Parker on the world wine market is as profound and prolific as his use of adjectives.
The former lawyer from Maryland came to the fore after the fabled 1982 Bordeaux vintage. Many critics were initially reluctant to endorse the wines of such an opulently fruited year. Parker was unstinting in his praise from the outset and anointed the top wines (now universally endorsed by critics and auction rooms alike) as great classics worthy of high scores.
It is his use of a 100-point scoring system that drives his critics to distraction and makes him such an apparent godsend to consumers. Although he produces impassioned tasting notes for the 150-plus wines that he regularly samples in a day’s work, the fear is that it is the point score alone that influences many consumers.
In taste, Parker is accused of championing the overoaked, “super-ripe” wines made from grapes that have been left for an extended period on the vine, resulting is a softer, richer style that many believe lacks an authentic regional signature.
This was precisely the accusation levelled at the St Émilion Château Pavie with its 2003 vintage. Parker scored it 98, while much of the English press described it as “undrinkable”. Sales went through the roof.
Should Parker be fearful for his throne? The criticisms of Agostini, suggesting that he may be a little closer to some of his subjects than he should, only add one more name to his list of detractors. But it will have scant influence on sales.
The author is a wine consultant
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