There is going to be much more champagne in the world, but will it be worth drinking? Early indications are that champagne producers, and their devoted allies, the merchants, are delighted, but drinkers are more likely to be disappointed.

The reason for the expected flood of champagne is the unprecedented decision to increase the area designated as champagne land by no less than 38 communes. The Champenois have been famously litigious about defending their monopoly right to la Champagne, their patch of dirt, and le champagne, their wine. Not only has this meant that outsiders have to call sparkling wines made by the champagne method “méthode traditionnelle”, instead of “méthode champenoise”, but also lawyers are called in against those who use the description champagne in relation to tea, chocolate and the colour of tights. But now that the Champenois are unable to satisfy the global demand for their product (especially from expanding markets in Asia and Russia), they are suddenly willing to help themselves to way more designated vineyards than they had previously recognised. Production is likely to jump from 330 million champagne bottles to 430 million bottles.

But quality has already taken a dive. Given that the 2002 champagne vintage is deemed to be one of the best for the region, with wines displaying levels of natural ripeness, alcohol, elegance and fruit not seen since 1990, I had high hopes for the year. Wrong. From the dozens of thin, dull, miserable 2002s I tasted recently, including some that were so nauseously evil I only just made it to the spittoon in time, it is clear that blends are being extended.

Perhaps we should be eternally grateful for the great champagnes in this vintage, including Roederer’s elegant, waxy, honeyed 2002 (Fortnum & Mason, £60) and the gorgeous, floral, crystallised lemon fruit of Chanoine’s 2002 (Tesco, £36.99), which boasts the ugliest champagne label I have ever seen, so wrap it in a napkin.

The 2000 vintage is the next best thing after 2002, and Le Mesnil’s 2000 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a delicious, fine, fat, ripe, appley champagne made entirely from chardonnay, as opposed to the standard three-grape blend (Berry Bros & Rudd, 01256 340182, £28.95). Le Mesnil’s lively, smoky, elegant non-vintage, another blanc de blancs, is excellent value at Majestic (£29.99, or buy two for £19.99 each). Another equally seductive spring offering is the ripe, yet lively floral fruit of Ruinart’s classy non-vintage Blanc de Blancs (Nicolas, £47.99). If you want a richer, rounder, nutty, smoky wine, seek out Alfred Gratien’s 1997 Brut (The Wine Society, 01438 740222, £35), which embodies what great champagne is all about, even from an ordinary vintage like l997. Champagne producers, take note.

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