One of the exciting things about the revival in French wine sales in the UK is that among the wines reappearing in the shops are little-known names from the remote hills, valleys and terraces of the southwest. It’s my favourite part of France, so I admit to a bias, but I have my reasons. It’s an area that remains true to itself and its traditions. This can mean some challenging wine flavours, but they bring rewards, if you give yourself time to acquire a taste for them (the same goes for the food: animal innards are highly valued).

Bordeaux is the famous name of the southwest, but I’m talking about the huge area to the south and east, where Bordeaux’s grape varieties give way to others you may never have encountered and hope never to have to pronounce – arrufiac, fer servadou, len de l’el, auxerrois and umpteen others and their synonyms. The appellation names aren’t always easier, but Madiran, Côtes de Saint-Mont, Cahors, Jurançon, Irouléguy, Gaillac and Fronton are some to look for. Wine merchants who have strong lists include Les Caves de Pyrene (01483 554750) and Vine Trail (0117 921 1770).

CELLAR NOTES

2004 Cahors, Le Petit Clos Triguedina, £7.99
Classic blackberry and graphite flavours with fine tannins (Waitrose).

2005 Madiran, Réserve des Tuguets, £9.99/£4.99
Meaty, dry, velvety red; blackberry, herb and wood-smoke flavours (Tesco; half-price until April 22).

2005 Cahors, Château Gaudou, Tradition, £6.49/£5.19
Ripe and supple, with spice, blueberry and liquorice flavours (Majestic; get 20% off when you buy two, until May 5).

WINE BLUFF

“Cahors has 11% of the world’s malbec”

Anorak fact: Argentina has nearly six times as much. The first cuttings arrived there from Bordeaux in 1852

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