Australian wine exports dropped in volume last year for the first time since 1995. It’s a scary development for producers, but it’s not all doom and gloom. The value figure was up and the now-fermenting 2008 harvest is larger than forecast, thanks to some long-awaited rain in November and December. Far from being even smaller than the diminutive 2007 crop, this year’s is now expected to be the same or greater.

But let’s not raise false hopes: there will be no return to rock-bottom prices and tidal waves of Bogofs (buy one, get one free deals). Instead, we have higher prices and a huge drive to convert us from thinking in terms of Australian wine, or just a grape variety, to thinking about individual regions with grape varieties attached.

How many regions can you name? Barossa, Hunter Valley, Coonawarra? A couple more? Fourteen have been singled out for promotion in the UK, which is probably pushing it a bit, but don’t let that put you off. If you venture beyond the familiar, to regions such as Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Margaret River, Grampians, Adelaide Hills and Tasmania, you’ll discover there really are distinct regional styles.

CELLAR NOTES

2006 Tesco Finest Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, £13.49
Complex and pure with sweet, savoury nutmeg aromas (Tesco).

2005 Margaret River Show Reserve Shiraz, £6.99
Spicy, sweet red-berry fruit. Focused, full, soft (The Real Wine Company, 01753 885619).

2005 Greenstone Vineyard Shiraz, £13.99-£15.95
From Heathcote in Victoria: spicy aromas, silky texture, lush raspberry fruit (Philglas & Swiggot, 020 7924 4494; The Fine Wine Company, 0131 669 7716; Taurus Wines, 01483 548484).

WINE BLUFF

“Parts of Victoria picked six weeks early this year”

Anorak fact: a prolonged heat wave - the longest Adelaide has ever known - advanced ripening throughout South Australia

Times Recommends

• Britain's Top 20 seaside fish and chip shops
• Ice cream makers: the scoop of the century
• British berries make super sorbets