Even before the Chancellor slapped another 14p duty on wine in last month’s budget, the average price for a bottle of New Zealand wine was £6.26, far higher than for any other country. Australia came second at £4.40, and the all-wine average was £4.01, which shows that, when you think how much duty and VAT there is before you even start, we’re not exactly lavish in our spending.

So, what is it about New Zealand? The superficial answers are zesty, vibrant sauvignon blanc, which is fashionable, and consistency – you know what you’re getting and there’ll be no nasty surprises. In comparison, South Africa and Chile are both making some terrific sauvignons, but you can trip up on the cheaper, drearier versions.

Another point, according to Jonathan Butt, head buyer for the Wine Rack chain, is that women are more comfortable buying New Zealand wines than those of any other country. And Majestic’s buyer, Matt Pym, thinks that New Zealand sauvignon has become a sort of honorary European classic, with customers who only buy French wines making an exception for New Zealand sauvignon. Just don’t tell them that in Sancerre.

CELLAR NOTES

2007 Blind River Sauvignon Blanc, £10.99
Smoky and flinty, with zesty green fruit (Oddbins).

2007 Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc, £9.49-£9.99
Tangy and ripe, with rich elderflower fruit (main supermarkets).

2007 Marlborough Hills Sauvignon Blanc, £7.49 (£4.99 for two)
Textbook zingy, ripe gooseberry flavours and a great offer (Majestic).

WINE BLUFF

“New Zealand makes only 0.3% of the world’s wine”

Anorak fact: but it accounts for 12% (one in eight bottles) of wine sold for more than £5 in the UK

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