Unless you are extraordinarily strong-minded and don’t peer into other people’s trolleys at the supermarket checkout – and I’m not sure I believe such claims of self-discipline – you’ll know that Italian pinot grigio is an extremely popular white wine. There’s a theory that people buy it because it doesn’t really taste of anything: it’s light, dryish, crispish and, er, that’s it. Combine this with inertia and the comfort factor of familiarity, and you’ve probably accounted for 99% of the buying decisions – although “decision” is probably too strong a word for the selection of most pinot grigio.

I would be lying if I said I had nothing against Italian pinot grigio, but this column has better things to do than rant about a dreary wine when there are so many interesting ones to point out. Not least among them are Italian whites made from indigenous grape varieties – not chardonnay and sauvignon, but arneis, fiano, falanghina, grechetto, favorita and pecorino. Each has its own flavour, without ever being overassertive or heavy, and all have a lovely spring-like freshness. What more could you wish for?

CELLAR NOTES

2007 Tesco Finest Fiano, £6.13
Floral aromas; full but crisp, pear, honey and grapefruit taste (Tesco).

2007 Roero Arneis, Marco Porello, £9.99/£7.99
Sappy pear and apple flavours; lively and lingering (Majestic; £7.99 each when you buy two, from Tuesday).

2006 Petite Arvine Vigne Champorette, Les Crêtes, £15
Stellar rarity from Valle d’Aosta; rich, zesty candied-grapefruit taste; (Les Caves de Pyrene, 01483 554750).

WINE BLUFF

“Petite arvine is one of the best Swiss grapes”

Anorak fact: a little is planted over the border, in Italy’s mountainous Valle d’Aosta region

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