Whenever I start explaining Côtes du Rhône to someone, I find myself wondering which of us will fall asleep first. So, why do I bother? It is simply that understanding the hierarchy of the southern Rhône appellations contrôlées (AOCs) opens the door to some of France’s best-value reds. Without the knowledge, you may never discover the world beyond lightweight, fruity Côtes du Rhône.

So, let us begin with Côtes du Rhône. This is the basic AOC and the largest — a status reflected in low prices. The difference comes when the word Villages is added, as in Côtes du Rhône-Villages. It signifies superior land and stricter production rules, and it shows in the quality.

The next step up is to the 20 communes allowed to append their own name, for example, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret, or Cairanne or Rasteau. These can be great value. Finally, over time, four villages — Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes de Venise and Vinsobres — have been promoted to AOC in their own right, and so have dropped the Côtes du Rhône moniker entirely.

Wake up! And try the wines below.

Cellar Notes

2006 Taste the Difference Côtes du Rhône-Villages, £5.99 Spiced-raspberry fruit and soft, savoury tannin (Sainsbury’s).

2006 Domaine de Mourchon Tradition, £8.95-£9.75 Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret: ripe and spicy (Big Red Wine Company, 01638 510803; Averys, 0845 863 0995; Irvine Robertson Wines, 0131 553 3521; Wrightson Wines, 01748 832666).

2005 Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux Cuvée Doucinello, £12 Stellar Vacqueyras: pure, peppery and silky (A&B Vintners, 01892 724977).

Wine bluff

“Beaumes de Venise is a dry red wine”

Anorak fact: the more famous appellation contrôlée wine from this Rhône village is the sweet, golden Muscat de Beaumes de Venise

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