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Girls who plait their hair too tightly or scrape it back in braids or a ponytail may be at risk of permanent hair loss, researchers suggest.
Hairstyles such as corn rows or braids and those that require chemical straighteners, weaves or hair extensions can damage hair and cause bald patches over time, the British Journal of Dermatology reports today.
Related diseases of the scalp, skin and hair are thought to affect people of African descent particularly. However, dermatologists have underlined the dangers of excessive treatment or scraping back for any hair type.
The tight bun styles favoured by ballet dancers, the corn rows once sported by David Beckham or the dramatic “Croydon facelift” look parodied by Vicky Pollard, the Little Britain character, could all potentially cause problems, they said.
A study of nearly 2,000 adults and children in South Africa found that one in seven schoolgirls and a third of women were suffering from “traction alopecia”, hair loss thought to be caused by excessive and prolonged pulling of the hair.
One in ten African men was found to have a skin disorder known as “acne keloidalis nuchae”, which can cause pimples, scarring and hair loss at the back of the head.
The researchers, from the University of Cape Town, linked the condition to the frequent close-shave haircuts that are popular among black men, but said that they could also increase the risk of blood-borne infections.
Hair loss was found to be more common in children whose hair had been chemically “relaxed” or straightened to form a ponytail. One in five children with relaxed hair had traction alopecia, against just one in twenty of those with natural hair.
In adults, hair loss was found to be more likely among women with either “relaxed” hair or braided natural hair, as against natural hair without braids; and it was most common when the hair was relaxed and also had extensions (such as braids or weaves) attached. “This suggests that relaxed hair may be weakened and less resistant to traction, such as is caused by attaching extensions to the hair,” the researchers write.
Men’s haircuts were found to be shorter, more frequent and more likely to cause accidental cuts and bleeding, which could lead to skin problems or infections, the researchers said.
One of the authors, Dr Nonhlanhla Khumalo said: “Traction alopecia is common in women and girls, particularly when relaxed hair has braids, extensions or weaves attached. This can cause unsightly hair loss.
“AKN [acne keloidalis nuchae] appears more common in men who frequently cut their hair, and is linked to haircut-associated symptoms, such as pimples, crusts and bleeding. To achieve the shortest possible haircut, electric shavers are often dug into the scalp. The possible risk for blood-borne disease transmission, such as viral hepatitis and HIV, associated with such haircuts needs to be quantified and nonmechanical methods of cutting hair may be safer.”
The study found that a further 7 per cent of women aged over 50 years had central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia - permanent hair loss that spreads from the centre of the scalp. While hair relaxers are thought to play a part in this, the exact cause is unknown.
Andrew McDonagh, a consultant dermatologist at the Royal Hallamshire Hospital in Sheffield, said yesterday that the findings confirmed previous anecdotal evidence that traction alopecia could be caused by particular hair styles.
“We see a number of black patients with traction alopecia each year and it’s recognised to be a major problem, especially in the US where there is a large black population,” he said. “But you see other patients with the condition, who may have treated their hair or worn it pulled back from the scalp.”
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i had traction alopecia last april from really tight dreads. my hair has since grown back although quite thin and patchy. i'm wearing it really short now. on my recent visit to south africa i noticed a lot of women with no hairlines; mostly due to burnt scalps from relaxers and tight styles.
brenda, leicester, england
Medical Research has its advantages and sometimes it just creates confusion. I wish researchers could be more specific about their findings and scope of research.
Being of african origin and having braided, chemically treated and worn natural hair, I think I can attest that it all depends because braiding help grow your hair and chemically treated hair makes it manageable.
Lyssiemay Annoh, London, United Kingdom
The fact stated here is braiding with chemicals. It can and may cause stress and hair loss. Natural hair braiding may not be a problem, but the problem here is most women, like myself, use chemicals with extensions, weaves etc. Most braiders braid extremely tight and cause extreme stress on the hairline. I have also noticed several African women with natural hair, and no hairline. Can anyone explain that ? Please be aware that chemicals and extensions just do not go together. Your hair is already stressed from the chemicals. Just be aware and cautious if you want your hair.
Sonia , Forthworth,, USA
This has been occuring for years. No need to look further than the men of the Sikh religion. The hair is pulled tight under the turban for years and baldness, alopecia, hair thinning in certain areas is very prominent. I cut my hair in my teens after years of tightening the hair in a bun to play sports and the baldness is prominent. The skin is also pulled to an extent where tractor furrows develop and when the hair is exposed or cut in later life, a horrendous vision of ridges and baldness appears. My research has taken a matter of minutes due to exposure to this 'traction alopecia' and is very common and known of in the Sikh world.
Nick Ahluwalia, Watford, UK
I agree. Africans have braiding hair for centuries, it is fact known to be a growth factor for Afro-Carribean hair!
Roxanne Annoh, London,
I hope these people doing this kind of research should not have their minds closed because of their schooling. Africans have been braiding their hair for millenium in West Africa . Please go to West Africa and East Africa and see how this has always been done and compare your results before coming to a very narrow conclusion.
Benson Zitha, London, United Kingdom