Donatella Versace sparked something of an international incident when, on the opening day of Milan men's fashion week, she dedicated her spring/summer 2009 collection to the presidential candidate Barack Obama. She called the Democrat “the man of the moment” and said that her new collection was designed for “a relaxed man who doesn't need to flex muscle to show he has power”. She then went on to offer the aspiring US president some sartorial advice: “I'd get rid of the tie and jazz up the shirt.”

The comment set the US press ablaze, but her endorsement seems to be based on the man's personal style. She told the Times: “He represents change, a new relaxed spirit for today and fashion is all about change - and evolution of style for different eras. I like people who challenge the status quo.”

In the world of menswear that rarely takes place - although this week there were a few notable exceptions. Prada produced a dress for men; Fendi took the Cuban heel a step farther with a wedge; Alexander McQueen spent three months creating a smoke motif; and Emporio Armani delved into kite surfing, with an ode to the wetsuit.

As ever, the menswear shows are more about tweaking and twisting the established. Pinstripe suits with broken stripes (Versace); tailored trousers with turn-ups (Westwood, Dolce & Gabbana); the safari suit meets the office suit (Gucci). The pervasive theme this season is doing something new with what you already have. The shoe of the season is the slipper. Suits are still slim and stripy, but turning up the trouser hem and forgetting the socks updates a generic look. Mixing suit jackets and trousers, while sticking to similar shades, evokes summer - at no extra cost.

Men’s Fashion Week in Milan

Nicola Copping seeks out the latest trends and gossip from the greatest menswear show on earth

Multimedia

• Pictures: Gucci, Prada and McQueen

• Pictures: Armani, Cavalli and Westwood

• Pictures: Dolce & Gabbana

Multimedia

• Pictures: Versace

• Pictures: Jil Sander

If you invest in anything, make it an ice-cream-coloured shirt. Citric and aquatic shades have been plentiful; Giorgio Armani has explored the shade of raspberry in his mainline collection. Fluorescent piping is everywhere: Gucci, McQueen and Jil Sander all went in for it, but subtly. All in all, it was a thumbs-up for colour and tailoring.

Dolce & Gabbana
You know you're in for something slick when the bouncers at the show are wearing designer suits. And slick it was - in a nocturnal sense. The inspiration pyjamas, the accessories suitably slumberous. Noël Coward tassled shawls (accessory of the week), slippers and the just-got-out-of-bed stubble sat with elegant striped suits. Naomi Campbell appeared to conclude the slumber party; let's hope they didn't lose her luggage in Terminal 5 again

Burberry
The creative director Christopher Bailey likes moody colours but they don't reflect his state of mind - his financial one anyway. Burberry has eschewed its “chav check” perception and its profits are soaring. Bailey's collection stuck to what he does best with layering, murky shades and raincoats. It may be a postmodern Burberry, but there'll always be macs

Prada
Not known for her love of convention, Miuccia Prada confirmed this to be one of her most mainstream collections. “I just changed the proportion,” she said. Cue cropped jumpers and bare midriffs and, wait for it, dresses. Kind of. Elongated polo shirts had the look of a dress, but were paired with shorts and were a surprising success.

Emporio Armani
Only Giorgio Armani could pull in a front row that read like an Oscar list. Josh Hartnett, the face of Emporio's new fragrance, sat next to Ben Barnes, aka Prince Caspian of Narnia - both perfect examples of Emporio's aesthetic: young, sexy and together. The navy and grey palette was strong, but the key was the diversity - from casual, sophisticated tailoring to high-performance sportswear

Roberto Cavalli
Another designer who caught the Wimbledon fever. Oxford bags (loose trousers) were in abundance and were one of the most attractive looks of the week, thanks to their winning formula: volume on the bottom equals a slimmer-looking torso

Alexander McQueen
McQueen is a man who knows how to make the most of a silhouette. Colour blocking for optical illusions, narrow pleat trousers, wide-shouldered jackets: he turns fat into thin