Suki Urquhart
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Ireland does not have a monopoly on the 40 shades of green. Highland Perthshire in June and July is just as verdant, with gradations of green that include the fresh shoots of emerging bracken and the lush emerald of new larch needles.
Driving up the steep track to visit Kevin and Jayne Ramage in their 1790 cruck house, the surrounding hills are festooned with hawthorn blossom and the arching golden fronds of wild broom.
It is among these that the couple have created an innovative rock garden and, more recently, have installed a display of rock art works by Lotte Glob, the renowned sculptor.
The hill top reveals a low stone house, its thatched roof weighed down by large stones joined by wires and, further on through the settlement (or ferme toun, which would have been home to several farming families and some labourers), tin replaces thatch.
Arriving at the end house, there is a grass roof on top of a glass-walled lobby linking the old thatched stone building to a dramatic modern extension. There is a fine juxtaposition between the neat thatched stone house (the reeds came from the banks of the Tay at Errol and replaced a previous tin incarnation) and the modern glass and rendered extension.
Kevin likes the contrast and says that, from the hillside above, a birds-eye view of the grass disguises the linking building, so that they look like two separate ones.
The Ramages had been coming up to the Aberfeldy area for years while living in London, where Kevin had started the Owl bookshop in Kentish Town in 1994, followed by The Grove in Ilkley, West Yorkshire, in 2002.
In 2004 the couple decided to move permanently to their cruck house, near to the working watermill that they had bought in Aberfeldy.
In an award-winning conversion that retained the original workings and grinding stones, The Watermill has become their third bookshop venture as well as a busy exhibition and events venue and a coffee shop.
Anybody who has gardened in this area will be aware of the stones, rocks and boulders that are thrown up when digging.
In the past, all the materials you would need for a house were free — the stones for the walls, the heather or reeds for the roof — but the tricky bit was the cruck.
Not only did you have to ask permission to cut a sufficient size of the scarce timber for this essential prop for your roof, but often the ownership would be retained by the landlord, giving them the “crucial” power if you wanted to “up sticks” and move house.
When asked why they chose the Highlands for their home, Kevin points out that they still have more than 240 Munros to climb. Mountains and rock-climbing hold a fascination for the pair that they could only dream about while living in a flat in London.
“I enjoy a challenge,” says Kevin. “When you are out walking, negotiating a tricky, rocky, exposed ridge, your mind is entirely focused on that — which is wonderful for relegating all the day-to-day stuff that can crowd creative thought out of your mind.”
It was while extending the cruck house that stones became a preoccupation, however. The Ramages were still living in London when the bulldozers were working on the foundations for the extension, so Jayne told them that “if there are a few rocks around don’t let them get taken away as I want to make a rock feature”.
Soon aware that they could have built a mountain, they stopped counting at 120.
Boulders, some the size of armchairs and sofas, litter the landscape as a result of the glaciers that cut these valleys in the rock tens of thousands of years ago. As the glaciers slowly sliced through the countryside, they collected boulders in their path. Then, as the ice melted, they were deposited where they fell.
Initially, the Ramages built a walled enclosure for a vegetable garden. Here the neat raised beds, edged with wooden planks made by a local joiner, are crammed with all manner of vegetables jostling for attention.
Everything is grown organically from seed in the rich home-made compost. A large immovable boulder in the centre rises like an iceberg — some of the ones moved earlier required two diggers to shift.
The garden is similar to the stone vegetable plots, or planticrues, found on the Northern Isles, which protect the plants from both animals and wind. Last week, a glut of early lettuce was heading for the kitchen at The Watermill cafe — Jayne hopes to provide the kitchen with many ingredients.
A large boulder wall to the east makes a dramatic boundary for another enclosure. It is decorated with smaller stones that balance on the boulders, forming natural sculptures while defying the wind to blow them over. This room with a view has yet to be allocated a use, but chickens are a possibility.
This hillside garden is not a gardener’s garden, but more of a natural link between the house and the hillside providing the main view sweeping northwards.
The garden reflects the hill, so there is a constant battle with invading bracken and broom. There are no lawns, paths are mown through the long grass and, instead of flower beds, there are wild flowers growing through the grass.
Being north-facing, the light is soft, giving a tranquil feel as the eye is drawn through the different shades of green.
Jayne’s organic ambitions even mean she pulls out bracken by hand. Kevin says she has definitely “got the bug”. Inside the house there are piles of organic gardening books on the kitchen table, while pots of vegetable seeds and young plants fill every window space.
The views from the south-facing kitchen are in contrast to the north. This was the original cottage where the Ramages stayed, before they started on the additions, to get a feel for what they wanted to do.
The most “gardened” bit is a border outside the front door that was created in time for the Ramages’ first exhibition in the garden. Some boulders were left in the ground here and these get used as a display base.
The latest development is a yurt, built from a kit and placed in the garden to house their offspring and guests.
In recent times, Lotte Glob has become a frequent visitor to the house and her sculptures are displayed around the garden.
Stone is one of Glob’s artistic preoccupations and, inspired by the landscape of Sutherland where she lives, she makes sculptures of flying stones, floating stones and sitting stones. Also to be found lying around the garden and feeling quite at home are large “books” made of stone, as if a friendly giant had just stopped reading and wandered off up the hill.
Aberfeldy is altogether a tamer part of the world to Sutherland, where the elements seem more elemental than in almost any other part of Scotland, but it is the same wild aspect that drew the Ramages to their Perthshire hillside as that which drew the Danish artist to her 16 acres of hillside near Durness on the road to Cape Wrath in Sutherland.
Glob’s stone pieces, she says, identify with the spare hills of Sutherland, but they seem equally at home in the more gentle curves of the Ramages’ hillside garden.
www.aberfeldywatermill.com; Glob is to have a exhibition of her work at The Watermill from August 2 to September 15
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