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Star musicians and your favourite Times writers at the Albert Hall
I spent a whole morning in Crouch End several years ago and, at the end of it,
understood exactly why people sometimes go a little doolally and hunker down
on their high street in combat fatigues with an AK-47.
I left the place seething with an irrational anger, mixed with pity. It was so
utterly bloody pleased with itself — and on such slender grounds.
I’ve lived in a good few locations in Britain, from Cardiff in the west to
Middlesbrough in the northeast, and I’ve always been able to celebrate the
good in both the locale and its inhabitants. But I cannot for the life of me
see the point of north London, an awful area populated by quite the most
awful, posey people.
Those long arterial roads — the Holloway, the Caledonian, Green Lanes — are
unspeakably grim, the hinterlands too crowded with the incessantly jabbering
metropolitan elite: the Hampstead Set, Islington Man, and so on. There is a
vast swathe of north London, from Acton in the west to Hackney in the east,
which I sometimes wish would be afflicted by a profound and instantaneous
subsidence, the whole area to be swallowed up suddenly in a fiery maw and
the grateful earth to then close above it. I realise that this is an
unpleasant thing to think.
My affection for southeast London, then, is based upon an objective assessment
of the evidence, as well as the fact that I was born and raised there. And
also on economic expediency — the average house price in Southwark, Lambeth,
Greenwich and Lewisham is at least £100,000 cheaper than in Islington,
£200,000 cheaper than in Camden and £400,000 cheaper than the patently
absurd Kensington and Chelsea. Blackheath is clearly prettier and leafier
than its north London counterpart, Hampstead, and a home there will set you
back half the price.
It is true that, for the most part, we do not have the Tube. For years we were
told that this was because the chalk aquifers made the ground too wet, but
that lie was exposed when the Jubilee line was extended through the newly
gentrified south Docklands (and the pretence began that Surrey Docks was
Surrey Quays. Even north Bermondsey has been renamed Bermondsey Spa. Look,
you mugs: it ain’t bleedin’ Bath or Baden-Baden. It’s still Bermondsey,
okay?).
The real reason the southeast has been underfunded and underdeveloped is that
the people who run the country tend to live north of the river and they
couldn’t give a monkey’s what goes on beyond the other shore, so long as
they can get to Tate Modern all right.
Nor do we have a daily newspaper — the Evening Standard is implacably rooted
in the north, and news stories from south London are only ever allowed if
they have the words “multiple stabbing” in the first paragraph. Restaurant
reviewers — a strange occupation, often conferred upon the limited talents
of the offspring of the famous — usually refuse to venture south. And when,
once in a blue moon, they are forced to do so by their editors, they whine
liked whipped puppies. Yet we have terrific restaurants down here:
Franklins, only 500 yards from my house, beats the famous St John’s for
fairly hardcore, modern-British cuisine. And it’s not full of braying City
bores, either. But have you ever seen it reviewed? Have you heard of it?
Ordinary people are beginning to take note, though. Southeast London
boroughs are now seeing property prices rise rather more quickly than most
of those north of the river, admittedly from a comparatively low base. And
only rarely, these days, do taxi drivers pull up the window, lock their
doors and speed away when you politely mention that you would quite like to
go to Camberwell or Dulwich or Peckham. We’re moving up. Perhaps one day we
will be as pleased with ourselves as the residents of Crouch End and
Highgate.
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