Alice Miles
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It’s too low, it’s unprotected and there’s too much of it: things are not sounding great from the gardening expert. She has come to consider this year’s plan, but she hasn’t yet got further than the gate. A big, low, unprotected expanse of waterlogged and weedy mud greets her — my vegetable patch.
I had hoped that Sarah Wain might overlook all that and go straight to my plan, of which I am rather proud. Nicola (whose garden it is) and I drew it in October, and it covers the whole year from rhubarb to radish, broad bean to butternut squash, in a fearsome grid.
Plot A has spinach and spring cabbage, followed by potatoes and sweetcorn, tomatoes and artichokes; Plot B more potatoes, carrots and parsnips; Plot C beans and peas; Plot D lettuce, rocket, chilli and tomatoes, and so on, all the way to plot I (squashes). We ran out of space before I could put in some aubergines.
But Sarah wants to consider earthier things. Like “organic matter”. You need a lot more of it, says Sarah, who is in charge of vegetables at West Dean Gardens, West Sussex, a rather more professional outfit. A ton or so of manure is spread vaguely around a few of our plots; I cannot now remember why those and not others. It was hell to spread (so heavy) and I don’t want to do any more of it. Nicola unhelpfully broke both arms falling out of an attic before Christmas so wasn’t able to do much. I glance at the donkeys peering bleakly out of their shed and wonder fleetingly whether some laxative and a nice trot around the garden...
Sarah has worse news. Not only do we need to do much more mulching as the year goes on, but the manure we have spread already is going to have to be dug in. This is even harder work, backbreaking and slow. I had hoped, I tell her, that if we spread it in January, compared with last year when we didn’t get it down until March, the worms might pull it all down into the earth by spring. Sarah can’t think of anything at all to say to that. She just gives me a silent, wide-eyed look of astonishment, like you might give a stranger on a Tube who asks if they could just sit on your knee for a little while. She explains later that it’s too chilly for the worms to do much at the moment and the manure itself will keep the soil too cold for germination. So we have to get digging in.
I take the expert to see the remains of the vegetables from last year instead: five admittedly rather manky-looking red cabbages (“I’d chuck those two”), a fair few leeks, some cute rows of garlic, onions and broad beans coming up sweetly for spring. “They need weeding,” she says. Yes, yes, but aren’t the lines nice and straight?
What I know we have done right is planned the rotation: peas and beans (2) after potatoes, root vegetables and tomatoes (1), followed by cabbage family (3). I show Sarah the map; lots of 1s and 2s and 3s and scribbling outs and Xs (some vegetables do not need rotating), and A and B and C and all the way to I. With a map like this, nothing can go wrong. “I shouldn’t worry too much about rotation in a new plot like this,” she says briskly. “It’s not as important as working on the soil. You need to build it up. Organic matter.”
Turns out there isn’t much that we’re not doing wrong: the rhubarb cannot be forced, as we had planned, year after year — it needs to rest for a year to recover — and our green manure, a crop we have sown in a few of the plots to protect the soil over winter, is “not as vigorous as one might have liked”.
Well, what does she know? Last year we did OK. The only thing that didn’t grow was the okra. We had peas and courgettes and spinach, French beans and sweetcorn and fresh spuds. My freezer is still full today of burstingly bright tomato and basil sauce, and tender broad beans. There are some onions left in the shed. And we have eaten delicious butternut squash, carrots and parsnips all winter, while the garden is still throwing up Jerusalem artichokes, cabbages and leeks, and a few pretty, purple Brussels sprouts. If anything, there was too much of everything last year and we couldn’t keep up. My philosophy of vegetable growing is chuck it all in and don’t worry if some of it doesn’t work out. Sarah thinks we should forget growing anything in the sunken plot A, one of the biggest, and work on building it up over the year instead, with compost and manure. We did have a lot of trouble there last year; it was alternately waterlogged and cracked dry. But we can’t just leave it empty: where would the sweetcorn and tomatoes go, and the second load of potatoes? They are on the grid.
“It’s a great location,” Sarah concludes, as the rain and the wind pick up and the South Downs glower at us across the fields. “It has great potential. But don’t be overambitious.”
Ha! We are going to grow: butternut squash, French beans, runner beans, broad beans, peas, red and white onions, spring onions, shallots, garlic, parsley, carrots, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, artichokes, leeks, cabbage, lettuce, fennel, rocket, chillies, tomatoes, butternut squash, courgette, pumpkin, sweetcorn, potatoes (six varieties), cauliflower, celery, celeriac, spinach, Brussels sprouts, radish. And aubergines. I know we are. Because it’s all on the map.

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Dear Alice, I feel just the same about weak seedlings-I like to give everything a chance! I end up with 10 courgette plants for just my husband and me! As to earthing up potatoes-I try to garden to a deep bed method so the soil is loose and easier to dig. I dig deep holes along a line and plant the tubers into those. I cover them lightly, then fill in as they grow until danger of frost has passed. I then earth up perhaps once more, but any late frost just nips the tops leaving the main plants undamaged. I then mulch with grass cuttings, straw or compost to stop any surface potatoes from greening. I won the shield at our village show last year, so must be getting something right! best wishes and keep going! Gillian
GILLIAN HUCKLE, SOUTH MOLTON, DEVON
have pricked out 8 okra plants and they are currently residing in my unheated greenhouse.
I need advice in two areas.
1. How do I encourage growth, do I need to feed? If so with what?
2. My garden is tended whilst I am on holiday by my 86 year old neighbour, will she have problems with the okra?
Why can I not find easy growing instructions either in books or on the Web. So far I have only found American pages and they do not fill me with confidence.
Thanks for any help.
A. Plummer, middlesbrough, U.K.
you ask for propagation tips? Start now to save the inside tubes from loo rolls and next spring stand them upright in boxes, fill with compost and sow your big seeds eg beans/peas and grow indoors - instant plug plants when they sprout
Mrs Jenny Mayhew, Inverness,
Almost the same as one of your previous tip, boil the kettle for a cup of tea and after making ie. not absolutely boiling water, pour over parsley seed in a suitable heat proof container, another mug being ideal. Leave overnight then plant as normal. Always been sucessful with this having never been sucessful before!
Sue, Wellingborough,
I sow seeds straight into my plot- lastyear 100% success.
Before the worst of winter set in I covered it with fleece and I now have established plants which i will regenerate by pulling old shoots.
Bill Bonfield, Swanley, Kent
I sow parsley half an inch deep in a tray of cells, about four seeds each, then I water it using a fine rose and BOILING water. Once drained I just leave the tray on the windowcill. When an inch or two tall I harden them off before planting out as plugs.
Carol Workman, Horsham, West Sussex
I always chit parsley in the airing-cupboard. Put a few seeds on a wet paper kitchen towel in a plastic box and seal within a plastic bag.Shut the door and keep dark and warm. Inspect from time to time. After about four or five days the seeds will have begun to sprout.
Plant sprouted seed in small individual flower pots and put on the window-sill. Plant out once they have become established. You can use seed which is up to three years old. This always seems to work.
Andrew Melville, Windsor,
I also let my parsley go to seed and then in the spring relocate the seedlings, they transplant well, no problem. Parsley is a biennual plant, that is it goes to seed on its second year, but coriander is an annual. I make very good parsley pesto then.
The other method that I've used with success is indoor germination in a warm place. First, soak the seeds overnight, then spread them on a folded wet paper towel, placed, for instance, on a old cress container. Keep them moist and as soon as they start to sprout, harden them up and put them outside. It should work.
Indeed parsley is very difficult to grow and perhaps because of this it has has kept its name like coffee and tea have. I've done some research on this fascinating subject, see
http://maria.fremlin.de/parsley
Good luck!
MARIA FREMLIN, COLCHESTER, ESSEX
Easy parsley - in my last veg patch, parsley self-seeded into the gravel paths between the raised beds. The gravel was about 2" deep, above a 'weed-proof' membrane laid on the soil. Obviously plant debris had accumulated and self-composted in the gravel, providing a little growing medium. Actually, quite a lot of things self-seeded in this way, parsley and coriander being the most welcome. I have not put this method to the test in a controlled way, but am sure it would be worth trying to replicate the gravel path in a shallow pan. I also found that potatoes that grew uninvited on the compost heap never caught any bugs or diseases, never got watered of course, and were earlier than and as tasty as the conventionally-grown crop from bought tubers. That veg patch was in Somerset, on a south-facing slope, a very favourable micro-climate.
Tara Owens, Taunton, Somerset
You asked for tips on growing parsley. I bought a supermarket pot of growing parsley for about 75p last summer, and then separated the seedlings and planted them in a row in the garden. They have grown amazingly well I pulled up several of the plants today because they were taking up too much room. I have so much parsley that I even thought about asking the local greengrocer if he would like some!
Lyn Curthoys, Chesham, Bucks
Views re parsley: I find it more difficult to germinate parsley since moving to a somewhat acid and sandy soil from a limey area, but have two large clumps of flat parsley in the garden which were originally bought as Tesco herb pots by my daughter, for use in a meal on the eve of her sister's wedding a year ago. She chopped all the tops off to use and put the pots out with the rubbish, but I retrieved them, unpotted them and stuck them in a sunny spot in the garden. They have supplied all my needs over the winter.
I have also found in the past that the old idea of dousing newly sown seeds with very hot water does seem to help them on their way. If you can once get a plant to flowering time and let it set some seed, it will self seed quite successfully thereafter - easy and literally 'priceless'!
Hilary Murphy, Bournemouth,