If past years are anything to go by, more than 9m red roses will be given in
Britain on Valentine’s Day. About 90% of these are bought by men. For many
of us girls, receiving anything at all is a relief – it’s horrid to feel
left out when everybody’s at it.
But that’s part of the problem. As romantic gestures go, sending a dozen
ludicrously overpriced, scentless and usually imported long-stemmed roses
may be traditional, but it is hardly original.
Cut flowers are lovely, but they have a contradictory appeal: on the one hand,
their fleeting nature makes them deliciously extravagant, something to be
relished while they look good. Yet, while they speak of passion and
immediacy, but they’re destined for the bin. Frankly, as symbols of
constancy and long-term love, they don’t cut the mustard.
Far better to show the object of your affection that you’re in for the long
haul by giving her, or him – it’s a leap year, remember – something that
hints at years, even decades, of together-ness. Rather than the instant
gratification of a cellophane-wrapped bouquet, I would give a living rose,
or two, or an entire rose garden. If I were really trying to impress, I
would do the planting myself, either directly into the garden or in a large
container.
So, where to start in the search for a rose that will speak volumes for years
to come? The name is an obvious but popular route, and breeders have helped
us by providing roses such as ‘Valentine Heart’ and ‘Marry Me’. Keen
gardeners would probably prefer a traditional rose, one that flowers once a
season, to a more modern repeat flowerer. The former combines the longevity
of a living plant with the fleeting flowering period of cut blooms – a
perfect combination of constancy and excitement, reliability and
anticipation.
A climbing rose suggests clinging, in the best sense, and looks wonderful
entwined with other climbers, such as clematis. If you’re not sure whether
your beloved’s long-term plans involve staying in their current home, it may
be more sensible to opt for a compact patio rose and present it in a
beautiful, and portable, pot.
Try to find out which colours the recipient is drawn to; the rose doesn’t have
to be red. If the variety you select is fragrant, the pleasure will be
doubled. With luck, the relationship will flourish and, over time, your
garden will become a map of your life together. By all means say it with
roses on Thursday. Just make sure they’ve got roots.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR ROSE
At this time of year, roses can be bought bare-rooted or in a container. The
former is often more cost-effective, and the choice of varieties broader,
particularly via mail order. You may, however, prefer to buy a potted rose.
It will look more presentable, and you can even tie a ribbon round it.
Choose a good day if you’re putting it directly into the ground; the soil
should be neither waterlogged nor frozen. Dig a generous hole, at least
double the width of the rootball, and fork in some organic matter.
Well-rotted manure, or homemade or multi-purpose compost, will do the job.
Next, check the soil levels: the graft union (the knobbly bit where the rose
has been grafted onto the rootstock) should be just below the surface.
Planting into a container takes less effort, but it is equally important to
use a good soil-based compost – some are sold specifically for planting
roses – and to position the rose at the correct level, leaving enough room
at the top of the container for watering.
As for pruning, pests and diseases, these are the cause of much unnecessary
hair-pulling. Most roses are remarkably forgiving when it comes to how and
when to prune, though it’s true that underpruning is always the safer bet.
Even if you take a hedge trimmer to them, most roses will recover and flower
well. That’s a bit extreme, though, unless you work for the parks
department, and it can subject the plants to unnecessary stress if done on
an annual basis – better to tackle the job with sharp secateurs. This is a
good month in which to do it, but you can prune any time that suits you
between November and mid-March.
The aim is first to remove anything dead or diseased, making clean cuts close
to the main stem. Then it’s simply a case of opening up the shape – the free
circulation of air around the stems will lessen the build-up of fungal
diseases such as mildew and blackspot – aiming for a well-balanced
framework. Make the cuts above an outward-facing bud or nodule on the stem,
which will encourage new growth to sprout away from the centre of the plant,
rather than cross over existing stems in the middle.
As a general rule, most newly planted roses should be left alone for the first
few years. Thereafter, hybrid tea roses are traditionally pruned hard, while
shrub roses, including English roses, need only a tidy-up, taking off no
more than one third of the plant. Other than that, once your roses have
reached maturity, you may want to remove one or two of the oldest stems at
the base every few years so vigorous new growth can take their place. This
is especially true of climbers. If you really want to avoid pruning,
ground-cover, patio and miniature roses can be left to do their own thing
without much intervention.
When it comes to disease, it helps to be philosophical. Most roses suffer from
blackspot from time to time – though new varieties are often bred to be
resistant – and it will drive you mad if you demand perfection. Prevention
is better than cure, so don’t forget to dispose of any affected fallen
leaves; I also pull them off the stems when I’m deadheading. If you don’t,
the spores will overwinter in the ground, particularly when temperatures
remain mild, and reinfect the plant the following spring.
Adopting a “live and let live” attitude to creepy-crawlies will also save your
sanity. I don’t use chemical sprays, but try to encourage beneficial insects
such as ladybirds, which munch their way through blackfly and aphids.
Otherwise, simply brush them off between thumb and forefinger whenever you
spot them, most often near the developing buds on the stem tips. Lastly,
don’t forget to deadhead; picking off faded flowers will encourage new ones
to form and keep the rose looking lovely.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
‘Bright Smile’: Break away from the usual red with this
cheery golden yellow rose. This is an excellent example of a patio rose – it
repeat flowers all summer long and has compact, bushy growth, making it
suitable for containers and small spaces.
‘Dark Lady’: If you prefer to stick with the traditional
colour, this English rose with voluptuous crimson flowers should fit the
bill.
‘Félicité-Pérpetue’: The name loosely
translates as “perpetual happiness”, and it should certainly bring joy to
the recipient, provided space can be found for a rambler that can reach
upward of 25ft. In midsummer, the stems are packed with small, creamy-white
pompon flowers, often tinged with pink in bud.
‘Marry Me’: Popping the question on Valentine’s Day?
Present her with this pretty pink rose and she’s bound to say “Yes”. Less
than 3ft tall, it will fit into any garden, and flowers continually
throughout the summer.
‘New Dawn’: This elegant climber remains popular nearly 80
years after its introduction. The medium-sized flowers are a cool pale pink,
the foliage is glossy and healthy, the scent has hints of fruitiness and the
name suggests an optimistic view of the future.
‘Valentine Heart’: This floribunda rose has ruffled pink
flowers with a hint of mauve, above foliage tinted purple-bronze when young.
These nurseries will deliver container-grown roses by Thursday: David Austin
Roses (01902 376 300, www.davidaustinroses.com;
order by midday on Wednesday) and Harkness Roses: (0845 331 3143, harknessonline.co.uk;
order by 5pm on Tuesday)
you can also send a love letter
www.sendyourloveto.com
it's easy and romantic
maria, nj,