Italy’s Le Marche region is proving a popular alternative destination. Between the Adriatic Sea and the Appenine Mountains, it is famous for great food, culture, rolling hills and cheap stone farmhouses: an irresistible combination for the expat.

Richard Dixon and Peter Greene bought a 12th-century property near Cagli, close to Urbino, in 1988. It cost them £17,000, and has two cottages, a vineyard and some land, with stunning views to the mountains beyond.

When they first arrived, there was a huge choice available. “We picked this one because it had two properties and it was close to the main road,” says Greene. “Some of the others we saw are totally cut off in winter; not very helpful if you’re trying to run a B&B business.”

He was working as a barrister in London and Dixon was a PR officer for the Greater London Council. “We were 32 and 36 and just wanted a change,” says Greene. “It felt like the right time to do it. And for £17,000, we couldn’t go wrong.” They set up their business a couple of years after moving over.

“A lot of people just rush into renovations and starting up the business, but it’s essential to get a feel for the house before you start knocking down walls.”

They rent out a cottage, which sleeps four, and a chapel, which sleeps two. “It has worked out well, but I have to say that when I look at some of the sums of money people are spending on wrecks now, I wonder how they are ever going to break even.”

Greene says that learning Italian is essential. He and Dixon recently won a battle against a local quarryman who wanted to dig up all the fields in front of the cottage they let. “We wouldn’t have got anywhere if we hadn’t spoken Italian. As it was, it was an extremely stressful time. My other piece of advice is to keep everything above board: it’s very easy to cheat the system, but it’s just not worth it. You need to get all your permissions in place, because if something goes wrong, like a quarry plan, you need to show what you’re doing and that you’ve followed every rule.”

There are three different legal structures for letting businesses in Italy. The simplest is the B&B, but the most rooms you can let out is three. At the end of the year, you file a simple declaration, and there is no Vat. The tax payable is graded depending on your income: the lowest band is up to €20,000 (£14,000). You have to be resident at the place, but there are no business taxes: B&Bs are rated family enterprises.

The “country house” structure is more complicated but allows eight rooms and a restaurant. You need to be in the countryside and will have to pay business taxes. If you want to go for Italy’s agriturismo structure, you have to prove that at least 50% of your income is from your farm or agricultural concern. Subsidies are available for all three structures, so find out what you might be eligible for. The best place to ask is the chamber of commerce or Confcommercio (www.confcommercio.it).

Jane and Ian Foster bought an old wine co-operative near the village of Cupramontana, close to Ancona, in 2001. They paid £60,000 for it and have spent about £400,000 doing it up. They let out three bedrooms.

“It’s been great,” says Jane. “But my advice to anyone is to really check your contract with your builders. You have to understand what is included and what is not, otherwise you could end up with beautifully tiled floors and no electricity.” Her husband agrees. “We have gone at least £50,000 over budget and we’re not finished yet. You should add 25% to your estimated cost and 25% to the time you think it’s going to take you, and then you may be coming close.”

The couple looked elsewhere before settling on Le Marche. “Tuscany was overrun with Brits and twice the price,” says Jane, who used to work for London Underground. “We came here to integrate into the community. We love the food, the countryside and the people.”

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