HOWZAT

Next day, we could have set out to kill almost anything, from a trout to a stag, but we preferred Huka’s more decadent pleasures, like the hot pool, best at night with digestifs under the stars, and dinner in the wine cellar, while drooling over the nebuchadnezzars of Mouton Rothschild and Chateau d’Yquem. That said, the food wasn’t a patch on Virginia’s, apart from a memorable brunch, watching a kingfisher diving as we feasted on smoked blue cod hash, topped with poached eggs and salmon caviar.

Page 2: Jill Hartley continues

() We loved our riverside room, but the sun and cobalt sky beckoned us to move on to the promised scenic splendours of the South Island and our final stop at Blanket Bay, Glenorchy (population 215), described as “a luxury alpine lodge” on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. We flew into Queenstown, renowned as the country’s adrenalin sports capital. Within minutes we were airborne in a shiny black helicopter, piloted by Louisa “Choppy” Patterson, who started the aptly-named Over the Top Company in 1976.

It was the most exhilarating thing I’ve ever done. Nothing can come close to the thrill of landing by helicopter on a deserted beach for a champagne picnic, or the excitement of swooping on to a glacier for an impromptu snowball flight. With Choppy in charge, we flew along the 12km (7½ miles) of Milford Sound, NZ’s best known visitor attraction.

Milford is deluged with 5.5 metres (18ft) of rain a year and has only 50 fine days. This was one of them and we marvelled at the privilege of seeing the world’s finest glacial scenery with its icy blue fiords and mirrored mountains in such perfect conditions.

I was still on a high as she lowered us down on to the lawn at Blanket Bay, surely the coolest way to arrive. Not many hotels knock your breath away, but this cathedral-height, eight-room lodge, built from local flinty stone and recycled marmalade-coloured wood on the shore of Lake Wakatipu, is a stunner.

Our suite, the Mt Earnslaw, named after the snow-topped peak we could see from our terrace, was bigger than my friend’s London flat. Indulgent extras included a shower converted into a steam room and a stone fireplace, ready laid with crackly logs.

Owned by two Americans, Tom (former president of Levi Strauss) and Pauline Tusher, who live next door, the lodge blends chameleon-like into its rocky backdrop. Completely hidden from the road, it can be seen only from the lake, or the air. The ten-metre-high Great Room is a magnificent blend of wood — the rafters once supported a wharf on the Brisbane River — and glass with an oversized fireplace and squishy sofas, placed to make the most of those lake and mountain views.

This time, as well as Americans, our fellow guests included both British and Asian honeymooners. Hardly surprising, as Blanket Bay is almost too romantic to leave. There’s excellent walking down the Routeburn Track, or jet boating on the Dart River, but long breakfasts in front of the fire, gazing at the mountains while soaking in the spa, are what I remember most.

On our last night we met Tom Tusher in the bar and toasted his success at Blanket Bay. He told us he also had homes in San Francisco, Lake Tahoe and Mexico, but preferred to spend most of his time in New Zealand. He could live almost anywhere, so why? After some reflection, he said: “I guess because it’s so beautiful, safe, yet exciting.” I’ll drink to that.

NEED TO KNOW

Getting there: Jill Hartley travelled to New Zealand with ITC Classics (01244 355527, www.itcclassics.co.uk). Her itinerary included return flights to Auckland with Air New Zealand, two nights, room only, at the Hyatt Regency, Auckland, two nights B&B at Kimberley Lodge, two nights on half board at Huka Lodge and two nights on half board at Blanket Bay. The cost of £3,143 per person includes four domestic flights with Air New Zealand and is based on two people sharing.

Further information: Tourism New Zealand (09050 606060 calls charged at 60p per minute, www.newzealand.com)

Explore Related Features

• Young Photographer