Brrr. It’s freezing out there, and, as we see it, there are two solutions.
One: put on your warmest coat, hat and gloves, and step out for an arduous
country walk that will get your blood pumping and your cheeks rosy. Two: put
on your warmest coat, hat and gloves, and make straight for a seriously cosy
country pub, where you can take them off again and sit by the fire with a
fine pint that will do all the blood-pumping, rosy-cheeked stuff without
demanding any effort.
It’s up to you, of course, but we’re going for option two. To which end, we’ve
asked Roger Protz, the editor of The Good Beer Guide and a connoisseur of
the fireside pint, for his pick of the 10 cosiest pubs in the land – all
complete with good company, good food and a roaring blaze in the grate.
CLACHAIG INN Glencoe, Argyll This slate-roofed inn stands at the heart
of the glen, with some of Scotland’s highest peaks forming the backdrop. You
need a warm welcome up here, and you get it (there used to be a sign saying
“Nae Campbells”, but that’s a thing of the past). The rough and ready Boots
Bar has a huge fire, 160 malt whiskies, a great range of ales from Scottish
craft breweries and folk music at weekends. There’s a less rowdy, 1 more
laid-back atmosphere in the family-friendly Bidean Lounge. 01855 811252
THE OLD DUNGEON GHYLL Great Langdale, Cumbria A Lake District
institution in a stunning setting. The perfect place 9 to defrost after a
few hours up on the fells, the Old Dungeon Ghyll is the walkers’ and
climbers’ pub par excellence – in the plain but snug Hiker’s Bar,
they’re even happy for you to take off those damp socks and dry them in
front of the fire. Expect plenty of chat and some impromptu music sessions.
The food (Cumberland sausages, baked potatoes) is more solid than inspiring,
but it’ll get you up Crinkle Crags and back. 015394 37272
THE GEORGE INN Hubberholme, North Yorkshire Tucked away in a little
village in Wharfedale, this is everything you could wish for in a Yorkshire
pub: flagged floors, oak beams, mullioned windows and coals glowing in the
grate. It was JB Priestley’s favourite, and his ashes were scattered in the
churchyard next door. If you want to make a walking weekend of it – the
Dales Way passes the door – there are rooms upstairs (from £70 for a
double). 01756 760223
YE OLDE BULLS HEAD INN Beaumaris, Anglesey The pub dates to 1472,
though the current building is relatively modern – built in 1617. The
roundheads commandeered it in the civil war, and Dr Johnson and Dickens have
stayed. They’d still feel at home: there are old settles, cosy window seats
with leather cushions, open fires (naturally) and plenty of curiosities –
including the 10 village ducking stool and a 17th-century water clock.
Children are welcome, the Hancocks HB is well kept and, if you overdo it,
there are smart rooms upstairs (doubles from £100). 01248 810329
THE LORD NELSON Southwold, Suffolk There are lots of good pubs in
Southwold, but the Nellie is the best, and nearest to the sea – walk down
East Street and, if you get wet, you’ve gone past it. It’s the warmth of the
welcome you notice here as much as the heat from the blazing fire. There’s
good, simple, home-cooked pub grub, a flagstoned main bar and, of course,
sublime Adnams beer: have a pint of the winter brew, the thick, porter-like
TallyHo. The perfect stop-off after a North Sea-blasted walk down the prom.
01502 722079
THE TALBOT Knightwick, Worcestershire It wasn’t too cosy this summer,
when the flooded River Teme came sloshing over the bar, but after
refurbishment by local craftsmen, the Talbot is back to its traditional
best. Its own brewery makes the This, That and T’Other beers, and the rich,
winter-only Hearth Warmer, to be enjoyed by the log fire that roars from
morning until night. Food’s a feature, too: salads from the garden, bread
and black pudding made in the kitchen, the rest painstakingly sourced from
local producers (there’s a good farmers’ market here on the second Sunday of
each month). 01886 821235
THE RED LION Preston, Hertfordshire Lost down country lanes near the
commuter towns of St Albans and Hitchin, this is a delightful village pub,
as it should be – it’s owned by the villagers. Whitbread was going to turn
it into a steakhouse, so the locals clubbed together and bought the place to
preserve its character. Now it’s the centre of village life – the Georgian
building, right on the green, also serves as the pavilion for the local
cricket team. It offers a grand fire and plenty of warming ales: the
landlord specialises in sourcing beers from small craft breweries. There are
Young’s beers, too – the Winter Warmer does exactly what it says on the
pump. 01462 459585
SQUARE AND COMPASS Worth Matravers, Dorset This old quarrymen’s pub
outside Swanage doesn’t have a bar: just walk in, go up to the hatch and ask
for a pint of Ringwood Best, and they’ll tap it straight from the barrel.
It’s a wonderful old building, made from the local Purbeck stone, and a
great example of what happens when you leave a place alone to mature. It has
been run by the Newman family for the past 100 years, and they don’t seem to
have changed anything in all that time, apart from adding a small dinosaur
museum (complete with fossilised poo). Well, it keeps the kids happy while
you have another pint by the fire. 01929 439229
THE BLUE ANCHOR Helston, Cornwall Appropriately, this 15th-century
miners’ pub looks as though it has been hewn from the rock, then had a
thatched roof plonked on top. It’s popular with locals and tourists, though
you’ll find more of the former at this time of year. Outside and in, all is
thoroughly traditional – flagstone floors, roaring fires, a skittle alley –
but, above that, the reason to come is the delicious and strong Spingo Ales,
which they brew themselves. The winter beer, Extra Special, is about to come
on, and it’s a thick, dark barnstormer at nearly 8% ABV: when it’s
introduced, the whole town slows down for a week or two. 01326 562821
AND THE WINNER IS...
THE OLDE GATE INN Brassington, Derbyshire Simply the perfect winter
pub: you won’t find a cosier place in the country. It’s nearly 400 years
old, and you can feel the history – Bonnie Prince Charlie’s soldiers were
billeted here on their march to London, and some of the oak beams came from
ships of the Spanish Armada. It pulls off the rare trick of being a genuine
local, packed with villagers, but thoroughly warm and welcoming to visitors,
too. With a fire blazing in the range, this is the perfect place to be on a
cold day. 01629 540448
To order the 2008 edition of The Good Beer Guide at the reduced price of £10,
visit www.camra.org.uk
Roger Protz was talking to Stephen Bleach
No matter how quaint the Olde Worlde inn is, the pub's name is probably the most historic thing about the place. Pub signs are a pictorial record of our history - from Roman times, through the Crusades and the Dissolution of the monasteries to the present day. They've been inspired by religion, royalty, lust, pride, murder, heroes and scandals but, in the rush to get to the bar, few of us take time to notice the pub's name. It's worth doing a bit of research on your local - it may have an illustrious or very dark past!
Elaine Saunders
Author : A Book About Pub Names
Elaine Saunders, North London, UK
The best pub for food and good beer and a great atmosphere our family have been in for a very long time is the white hart in sherbourne dorset give it a try
josie, Ilfracombe, devon
Thank god he didn't mention my favourite winter pub
CR, Berkshire, UK
I enjoyed staying at The Griffin in the centre of Oswestry--good grub, good beer and friendly staff.
Robin Bather, Metepec, Mexico
It has to be "The Applecross Inn", Applecross, Wester Ross, Scotland. Not only is the food and drink marvellous just getting there is a worthwhile journey in its self. It also has one of the finest views in the world. I'm getting quite nostalgic; when I remember the things we used to get up to....
Adam, Kohukohu, New Zealand
Yes Jennifer, the Tan Hill Inn is a pub to remember, and I do . From forty some years ago(1961). As a young pilot on a Vulcan I had to undergo escape and evasion training. We were taken up on to the moors in the middle of the night and told to find our way to a rendezvous point. It served to convince all of us in the V-force that we didn't stand a chance and should give up to the enemy at the first opportunity.However, I and my crew, whilst stumbling around in the mist saw a faint glow one night and figured the enemy couldn't possibly be there. It was the Tan Hill. We stumbled into the bar where one wrinkled veteran occupied a seat and gazed at us without a word. The skipper explained what we were doing there and promised future payment for any goods offered. After refreshing ourselves we drifted off again into the mist and into the hands of the capturing forces. The skipper subsequently sent them a postal order. That was truly a very hospitable establishment.
Crombie.
A.Gilbraith, Perth WA, Australia
I would agree with Dave regarding the Clachaig it was just like that 16 years ago. I went to the Blue Anchor in the summer to find it very unfriendly and the beer was almost undrinkable. The Talbot is excellent with very friendly staff and customers and excellent beer, well worth a visit at anytime of the year.
stuart, Kidderminster,
Though I am a member of CAMRA, I sometimes wonder who checks out some of these pubs and gives awards - our local winner this year has a less than pleasant yobo element - 5 pints of lager
and they are up for anything - the toilets are a disgrace and food is served throghout the pub ( adjacent to the toilets)- sending the drinkers into a tiny corner or standing against the bar. It's not my idea of a perfect watering hole.
Beerybernie, Vale of Glamorgan, Llantwit Major,
Yup.. the Red Lion in Preston Herts is up there with the best of them. Good wholesome food and a range of real ales. On the one night they don't do food (Tuesday) I trekked out there and Tim the Landlord still made me supper. You may need Mrs Garmin to get you there but well worth the effort.
Dave, Accrington, Lancashire
I'd like to nominate the Moulin Hotel near Pitlochry in Perthshire, Central Scotland as a scandalous omission from the list. The roaring fire and wooden snugs are perfect for recharging the batteries following a day climbing the nearby Ben Vrackie, fishing for salmon or exploring the breathtaking Tummel valley. The inns own brewed ales (a special mention for the delicious 'Braveheart') are the perfect accompanyment to a cosy night among the low beams and a delicious meal.
Zoe Barton, Derby, England
My local pub, Woods in Dulverton, Somerset, is the ideal refuge on these cold icy nights with its log burner, great food, always someone to talk with and lashings of the stupendous Otter Head.
Adrian Tierney-Jones, Dulverton, Somerset
The Tan Hill Inn, on the pennine way right at the top of the Yorkshire Dales, gets my vote. It's the highest pub in the country and it's always cold outside. It has ducks sleeping by the open fire, it's dark and cosy, it's miles from anywhere, and is in every sense of the word perfect. They even have a giant snowplough/tractor to get you there in harsh conditions. Never found a place I was so reluctant to leave.
jennifer, notts,
The Old Dungeon Ghyll !! You've got to be kidding !! You're as likely to mugged there as in any grim inner city. Despite the setting. It's a horrible place.
Rich, Leeds, UK
Can't say I agree on the Clachaig. Whilst in a stunning location, the place itself is somewhat run down, and makes little effort to welcome the visitor at all. The food is mediocre and the toilets are the last word in disgusting. A word of caution also. The doors are locked at night and the rather less than welcoming owner does not give out late keys. So if you happen to be using it as a base and want to come back late, forget it. A welcome in the hillside indeed.
David Jenkins, London, UK
Dam!
Now I will not be able to get into the Square and Compass on weekday in winter anymore. Weekends have been a write off for a couple of years since the 2nd home ratio passed 50:50 in Worth Matravers and the Guardian reading crowd escaped from their studio flats for a quaint break with like minded readers.
Kevin Davis, Shillingstone, Dorset
I rather like the idea of renaming them. All with more politically correct and non gender, race or religious determinative names. Preferably removing any reference to their history. What about the Mill House? Or even the Gordon Brown..
Pete Balchin, Solicitor , Bristol, UK
There is no mention if any of the pubs suggested have laid down nasty red patterned carpets over lovley old flagstones, if so, kick them out of the list, now!
Ewan , sherborne, dorset
The Lord Nelson! what a lovely pub. I'm sat at my desk longing to be back in this cosy, warm & friendly pub.
A trip to Southwold would not be complete without a visit to the Nellie and a pint of Adnams beer.
Ann Dodkin, Sawbridgeworth, Hertfordshire
Er, perhaps others have more tolerance but a pint of Tally Ho is more than likely to floor the unwary it is VERY strong. Traditionally in Southwold pubs serve it by the wineglass with only a brave few going for a half.
Or try a father-in-law (old and mild) or a mother-in-law (old and bitter) while "going for a wander" start in one pub visit several others and end up where you started.
mark, reading,
With the leather sofas, spread of all the newspapers and a roaring fire as a backdrop as a pub with fantasticly good food and friendly service, I would certainly rate the Felin Fach Griffin near Brecon as a pub that is as close to perfection as is possible.
philippa hodson, london, uk
The 'Tom Brown' in Dorchester-friendly, airy, fantastically good Ploughman's and they brew their own beer.
Or in Wharfedale up North, the Hunter's Inn has 9 ales every day(they change with the barrels); forget the food, but there is a fire.And the beers are the best in Yorkshire.
Simon, Weymouth, uk
The Swan House in Beccles - open fire, comfy seats, good food, many happy (hic) afternoons.
Blewyn, Muscat, Oman
Re the George at Hubberholme - you forgot to mention the candle that is lit in the window each day to show the passerby that the place is open!
Allan, Cowling,
"The Plough at Eaves" a few miles north of Preston. Nearly 400 years old - cosy, friendly, great food.
Stuart, Brisbane, Australia