Sri Lanka, a golden island in the Indian Ocean, tailor-made for holidaymakers,
is suffering from tourist blight. Hotels are 60-70 per cent empty and beach
traders, desperate to sell their silk scarfs and jewellery, look forlornly
at the scarcity of foreigners lying on the sand.
It’s a sad story for an island that can offer so much for honeymooners or
families. The tourists are staying away because when they contemplate their
next holiday and read about the continuing conflict in northern and eastern
Sri Lanka, and more recently the Tamil Tiger air bombing of the military
base not far from the international airport in Colombo, they assume the
country is too dangerous, or at least poses an unacceptable risk.
The fact is that there are now many countries in the world where there are
potential risks for the holidaymaker, whether from internal terrorist
incidents, as in Turkey and Spain, external international terrorism
deliberately aimed at Western tourists, as in Bali in 2002, or just
animosity towards Westerners.
It is all too easy, and understandable, to take what might seem the easy
option and plan a holiday where it is hoped there are no such risks, like
two weeks in Cornwall or a fortnight on a barge in France.
However, invariably the perception of danger in the mind of the holidaymaker
from reading about individual incidents in different countries is far
greater than the reality on the ground. For example, when the Tamil Tigers
dropped a few gravity bombs on the Katunayake air base next to the
international airport outside Colombo on March 25, flying in low below
military radar in two light aircraft, the perception back in the United
Kingdom and elsewhere in Europe was that the main airport had been bombed
and tourists were in danger.
Hundreds of holidaymakers cancelled their bookings, and certain countries
whose nationals frequent Sri Lanka, notably Australia, Germany and France,
advised against any travel to the Indian Ocean island. In fact, the airport,
although closed for a few hours as a precaution, was soon up and running,
and unaffected by the drama beyond the perimeter fence.
The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office has been more realistic in its
travel advice, strongly warning against any trips to the north and east but
not suggesting that Sri Lanka should be off limits. British diplomats in
Colombo, who helped the FCO to draw up its assessment, know that in the 23
years of ethnic strife between the independence-seeking Tamil Tigers and the
majority Sinhalese government, the would-be secessionists have not once
targeted tourists.
So is the perception of danger misplaced? Is it worth risking a holiday in Sri
Lanka? Having just returned from more than two weeks in the country, playing
cricket against Sri Lankan club sides in Colombo and Galle in the south, and
Dambulla and Kandy, in central Sri Lanka, - and was in Colombo on the day of
the air base bombing - I believe the island offers the potential for a
wonderful and safe holiday.
With so few tourists around, there are now also some genuine bargains. It’s
possible to stay in some of the best hotels, such as the Lighthouse in
Galle, the Mount Lavinia and Galle Face in Colombo, the extraordinary
Kandalama, built into a rockface in Dambulla, the Earls Regency in Kandy and
popular Blue Water in Wadduwa, at rates that are within holidaymakers’ price
range, and be guaranteed luxury accommodation. There are also smaller
hotels, such as the Coral Sands in Hikkaduwa, right on the ocean in the
south, where a room for the night can cost as little as £30.
Sri Lanka should not be a one-location holiday spot, there are too many places
to see and enjoy which can be easily reached by car or, in some cases, by
train. With pre-planning, it is possible to arrange an itinerary that will
allow you to enjoy the long, sandy beaches in the south, explore the
restaurants and elegant bars in Galle - eat chicken and prawns in the Galle
Fort Hotel and then have a nightcap at the grand, colonial-style Amangalla
Hotel - and go on a safari to the Yala Natural Park in the south, home to
elephants, leopards, sloth bears and crocodiles, as well as being a paradise
of birdlife.
Sri Lanka is one of the finest wild animal-watching countries in the world: in
Yala Park, the terrain is fairly open with grasslands and there is estimated
to be one leopard per square kilometre; in August and September, elephants
gather in extraordinary numbers - sometimes as many as 300 - in the north
central province.
Despite the lack of tourists, there are a number of hotel chains which have
come up with new ideas to attract the more adventurous holidaymakers.
Jetwing, for example, which owns the Lighthouse in Galle that overlooks the
ocean, is offering an eco-holiday in a new-style thatched hut complex,
called Vil Uyana in Rangirigama, about 170 kilometres from Colombo, set in a
wetlands environment with lakes and reed beds. It’s like living in a private
nature reserve. There is even supposed to be a baby crocodile called Bessie
lurking in the waters, although I am not sure whether that’s an “extra” that
would be welcomed by everyone!
My husband and I went to Sri Lanka for a three weeks in August and had an amazing time. We travelled around by taxi, stayed in beautiful, remote spots and avoided really crowded places, hence behaving responsibly as tourists. The warnings at the time were to avoid the east and north, which we did. We had a fantastic holiday and saw some absolutely breath-taking sights, whilst feeling completely safe.
I felt so sorry for the people, who seem to be suffering not only from the aftermath of the Tsunami, but also from the lack of tourism.
We have been to the Maldives twice, but Sri Lanka has so much more to offer. We are planning to return there for three weeks this summer, and I refuse to feel bad about this! I think the article was well-written and accurate.
cherry , Liverpool, UK
If Peter Ratna is disguntled about what happened to him, perhaps he should stick with BA next time!
RH, London,
Michael Evans is welcome to visit Sri Lanka as and when he pleases.
But why is he using this good paper to mislead us into a minefield?
I booked a holiday to Sri Lanka for 9May till 21May.
Now I ve found out that my travel plans have to change because Michael Evans' safe heaven is too unsafe for air lines to fly to.
They are willing to give me a different date at no cost, but to cancel I have to pay.
Please try and understand that most of us, unlike you journalists, only have 28 days a year in annual leave. With weddings, partys, kids school events set a side we have maximum 15 days to go on Holiday. We can't waste those precious days, just becuase you feel sorry for a country.
Peter Ratna, Surrey, United Kingdom
Well, it's disheartening to see most people who commented against SL are tamil people, who live in abroad and support terrorism of LTTE. But, these people forget the fact that we all belong to sri lankan. Also. they forget that we have so much in common that we can enjoy together. however, one day we all will realize what a waste it had been to wage a war that brought no salient outcome to either party
Wenura, St.Catharines, Canada
Having just returned from a glorious honeymoon in Sri Lanka (we were also in Colombo when the LTTE bombed the military airport), I wholeheartedly agree with Michael Evans' article. At no time during our stay (which took in Colombo, the Cultural Triangle and Nuwara Eliya in the hill country) did we feel any more threatened by terrorism than we do when carrying out our daily lives in London. We would not hesitate to return. Sri Lanka is a beautiful country with exceptionally friendly people. To visit so many excellent, yet empty, hotels demonstrated just how much damage the exaggerated press reports of the political situation in Sri Lanka have done. Our heart goes out to those whose lives have been affected by the massive downturn in tourism which Sri Lanka is experiencing.
CG, London, UK
Sri Lanka has been saying that the LTTE was targeting the foreign diplomats. It was also saying that the LTTE put the lives of civilians by bombing near the airport. Can Michael Evans tell us when did the SL govt think its safe for foreigners to come.
Anyone who cares about justice & peace should stay away from Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka is simply a rogue state.
Maldives & Mauritius have more to offer, but most importantly safer than Sri Lanka.
Jonathan, London, UK
mr michale evans 100% correct as iv been to many places i had the privilage to see. this beautiful island last month .its amazing to see such warm and loving people .with varities of culturel back ground living together,its truly a paradise.
kuthbuddin , hayes, u.k
I went to Sri Lanka a couple of months ago and I completely agree with the points made in this article. It is true despite the ongoing civil war, tourists have never been targeted. At no point did I feel unsafe, and the visible police presence in Colombo was reassuring. The bottom line is that very few countries in the world, if any, can match the combination of mile upon mile of some of the best beaches in the world, several UN World Heritage sites, a bustling city and some of the best food and hospitality I have encountered. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit and would not hesitate visiting again.
Lucas Hunkin, London, England, UK
The international airport was closed a 2nd time within a month & there was firing all night. Is this because the airport was safe?
Please don't scarifice other peoples' lives to satisfy your greed.
Jonathan, London, UK
Aru Rajeevan only illustrates what the terrorists in Sri lanka want tourists to percieve.
The LTTE uses 'innovative' terror tactics such as the "terror bombings,wildlife sanctuary killings",etc. to achieve this, believing it would lead to crippling the economy of the country which in turn would put pressure on the government of the country on matters related to the war.
A person who visits would know!
mahen, Welimada , Sri lanka
Those who exaggerate the dangers of travelling to Sri Lanka are usually terrorists or terrorist sympathisers in the West who seek to cripple the economy of Sri Lanka by scaring away tourists with their false propoganda. If the Sri Lankan economy is weak, the terrorists feel that they have the advantage in their phoney 'liberation' (intimidation) struggle. In the West, they are a well-organised mafia style organisation and reputedly are in a position to influence certain authorities that to issue regular travel warnings against travel to Sri Lanka - regardless of the ground situation. Foreigners are beginning to see through this terrorist ploy and see Sri Lanka as a unique multicultural travel destination that offers great value.
Devan, Adelaide, Australia
International airport closed 2nd time within a month. Is that because Michael Evans & his paymasters thought it was safe?
Please don't risk other peoples' lives to satisfy your greed.
Jonathan, London, UK
Perhaps the Australian who responded can identify when any tourist has been injured or killed in the whole of the time that the 15% minority in Sri lanka are have used terrorism to force the majority to give them one-third of the land available for their use only? Visiting Sri Lanka today is no different from visiting Eire during the troubles that blighted Northern Ireland. Trouble that were brought to an end by talking!
JS, South Wales, UK
Hi Aru Rajeevan,
Are you on the LTTE payroll? Did they send you to Australia so that you could respond to articles about Sri Lanka in this manner? Shame on you. You must be a sick person. I am not afraid to go to the North, East, West or the South of Sri Lanka. I guarantee this to any person. Go to Sri Lanka it is indeed a beautiful place to visit. you will be safe.
Lion Jit, Toronto, Canada
Hey Michael, beautifully written indeed.
I was living over in Aus for awhile and came back realizing how much character and colour this little place has.
This is the place to be!
I am living and working here. I take every excuse to drive or 'bus' down to the Hikkaduwa beach (2 hrs from Colombo) on a weekend. Its again about 2-3 hours to get to the cooler climate in the hills. Plenty of activities to do - Rafting, Jet-skiiing, Camping, Safari, etc.
This is definitely the place to be!!
Anj, Colombo,
I really like this article by Michael Evens because it is a true and a factual experiance of the reality in a holiday to Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka is still a country of smiling people despite it's share of anomilies in life. It's record of ethnic harmony is second to none and this can be observed in the urban or the village environment by anyone visiting the country.
C. Lokuliyanage, Alperton, Middx
What a true account of this " PARADISE ISLAND" one must visit it to really see and experience what many famous personalities have echoed over time. Sri Lanka is truly a place for family /honeymooners or even the adventurous. You should try the white water rafting...wow ...but not for the faint harted like me.
Due to the ISLAND been quite small it can be easliy covered and the holiday such fund due to the variety one can find. The beautiful beaches, the tea plantations and the ancients cities with history of over 2000 years.
It is a holiday where it will exceed your dreams.
Kevin B. Grebe, SHANGHAI, CHINA
Michael Evans (a defense correspondent) is trying to portray a very positive picture about Sri Lanka's tourism for reasons only known to him. What about Sri Lanka track record of terror bombings, wildlife sanctuary killings, curfews, military checkpoints, political and ethnic conflicts and travel warnings issued by several countries like UK, USA and Australia?
Is Michael willing to take responsibility for the lives of the foreign tourists visiting Sri Lanka due to his ill advice when there are other similar or better destinations to explore, like Maldives or Mauritius where there is no war?
Aru Rajeevan, Sydney, Australia
It is heartning to know that journalists like Michael Evans talk about the reality of modern day Terrorism .He has pointed out the fact that other countries in the world are also at risk quoting Bali where no one ever gave a thought as to what might happen . Are we forgetting the terror attacks in London and the USA?
Sinhalese and tamils live very happily in Colombo , and I am certain that Tamils in Colombo condemn all the terror tactics carries out in their name by a few misguided individuals .
SL has lot to offer a tourist , The hotels are a fraction of the cost Yet no expense has been spared to give that luxury that all the best hotels provide , The mouth watering food and the courteous hotel staff will make anyones holiday in SL truly an unforgettable expereince.
Anoma , sutton, Surrey
I went to Sri Lanka for a holiday during the beging of this year. I think it is one of the greatest places on earth, and I did not feel threatned or worried about my limb or life at any point during my trip to Sri Lanka. Furthermore, what people really need to uderstand is that more people die in UK due to car accidents than the number of people dying in Sri Lanka due to the war. Actually you stand a much greater chance of loosing your life while driving to work rather than while you are on holiday in Sri Lanka.
Marco Fitch, Adelaide, SA
You go on holiday to relax , enjoy and have a peace of mind---not to worry lying on the beach about your limb and life--We are not paid as correspondents or tourist promoters like Michel Evens to take such risks.
S.S.NIROSHAN, LONDON, U.K
I really like this article by Michael Evens because it is a true and a factual experience of the reality in a holiday to Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka is still a country of smiling people despite it's share of anomalies in life. It's record of ethnic harmony is second to none and this can be observed in the urban or the village environment by anyone visiting the country.
C. Lokuliyanage, Alperton, Middx