For much of the past decade, any visit to Nepal has inevitably involved a
crash course in local politics – usually of the violent sort.
The short drive from Kathmandu’s international airport to the city centre
would often take hours as police battled with angry mobs protesting against
the Government or the unpopular King Gyanendra.
The trekking stores, bookshops and backpacker cafés of Thamel, the city’s
tourist hub, would shut down at a moment’s notice as Maoist rebels called
regular nationwide strikes.
Trekkers in the mountains would occasionally be stopped by gun-toting Maoists
demanding “taxes” to fund their “people’s war” to overthrow the monarchy and
establish a one-party state.
On a visit to Kathmandu in 2004, I attended a drinks party at which most of
the Cabinet were drowning their sorrows after being sacked that day by the
King.
“Nothing to worry about – it happens all the time,” one of them slurred
nonchalantly into his whisky. “Welcome to chaos.”
Returning to Kathmandu last month, however, there was an unfamiliar sense of
order in the air – clogged as it was with fumes from the capital’s
ubiquitous traffic jams.
The reason was simple: the Government signed a peace deal with the Maoists in
November, ending a decade of fighting that cost 13,000 lives and crippled
the economy, especially the tourist industry.
Nepal attracted almost half a million visitors in 1999, three years after the
Maoist revolt began. By last year, that number had dropped to 280,000. But
now the peace deal is in place, the Government is trying to lure back
foreign tourists and has set itself a target of 600,000 visitors for the
current fiscal year, which began in July.
It has launched a “Nepal for all Seasons” campaign to attract visitors year
round, rather than just over the summer, and to its restaurants, casinos and
hotels, as well as its spectacular Himalayan peaks. It is planning to slash
fees for climbing Mount Everest – one of its top tourist attractions –
during the off-season. It has announced plans to invest millions of pounds
in new infrastructure, including a new international airport and a motorway
to the Annapurna range – a popular trekking destination. With the few
international flights to Nepal filled to capacity, it is allowing more
foreign airlines, including Silk Air, a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines, to
fly direct to Kathmandu.
The Nepal Tourism Board’s slick new website (www.welcomenepal.com)
is reaching out to new kinds of tourists by promoting weekend breaks
tailored to everyone from young lovers to golf enthusiasts. “Spend the
weekend in a remote jungle resort showing her what an animal you are,” reads
the promotional blurb for “Awesome Dirty Weekends”. Another for “Wild Stag
Weekends” suggests: “Don’t forget to have a drink at one of the local dance
bars, where beautiful Nepali belles will dance circles around your pals.”
Critics say that the campaign is doomed to fail because of corruption and
inefficiency within the Government and continuing political instability
around the country of about 29 million people.
Nepal still suffers regular strikes, protests and bouts of unrest –
particularly in the south where locals say they are being marginalised by
the political elite. Last week, dozens of Maoist students were arrested in
Kathmandu after clashing with rival activists and trying to set fire to a
member of parliament.
Tour operators, restaurateurs and hoteliers – even within Thamel – accuse the
Maoists of continuing to extort money as they did during their “people’s
war”. The Maoists, meanwhile, have repeatedly threatened to pull out of the
Government if their demands are not met ahead of an election in November for
a new constituent assembly. The original plan was for the new assembly to
vote on whether to abolish Nepal’s monarchy, but the Maoists now say the
country should become a republic before the November election.
“We have our doubts,” Prachanda, the Maoist leader who uses only one name,
told reporters last month, when asked if the polls would be held on time.
“We want the election on schedule, but it is still fraught with
uncertainty... We will launch a peaceful popular protest movement to ensure
timely elections.” He gave no date for the planned protests.
But despite the uncertainty surrounding the poll – and the peace deal – the
latest figures for tourist arrivals are encouraging. More than 26,000
foreigners arrived by air in July alone, 25 per cent more than in the same
month last year, according to the Ministry of Tourism. The bulk of foreign
tourists are Britons, and their numbers have grown by 31 per cent since last
year. No doubt the Government is hoping that they will heed the advice of
the tourism board’s new promotional slogan. “Naturally Nepal,” it says.
“Once is not enough.”
Need to know
Renata Rubnikowicz
Getting there: Gulf Air (0870 777 1717, www.gulfair.com)
flies daily from Heathrow to Kathmandu from £843 return. Qatar Airways flies
from Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester (0870 7704215, www.qatarairways.com)
from £566.50 return. Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com)
from Heathrow connects with SilkAir’s service (www.silkair.com)
from Singapore to Kathmandu, beginning October 30, from £837 return.
Where to stay in Kathmandu: (double B&B a night) Hyatt Regency(00
977 1 449 1234, www.hyatt.com) from £76.
ShangriLa Hotel (1 441 5754, www.hotelshangrila.com)
from £73. Radisson (1 441 1818, www.radisson.com/kathmandune)
from£108.
Tours:
Mountains for softies: The Adventure Company (0845 450 5312, www.adventurecompany.co.uk)
has a nontrekking Himalayan Discovery trip to Nepal later this month,
including an elephant safari in Chitwan national park. The price of £1,112pp
includes flights from Heathrow on September 19, 11 nights’ accommodation and
most meals.
Himalayas for children: Explore’s Himalayan Discovery family group tour
(0870 333 4001, www.explore.co.uk)
includes an overnight mountain camp. The price, from £1,599 for adults and
£1,399 for children, includes flights, 11 nights’ B&B (one
camping), some meals and a guide.
Peak effort: The Mountain Company (020-7498 0953, www.themountaincompany.co.uk)
runs a 24-day expedition for experienced walkers, culminating in the ascent
of the 6,476m Mera peak. The next trek on March 27 costs £1,545pp, excluding
flights, but including accommodation.
More information: www.welcomenepal.com,
www.visitnepal.com
